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Interesting setup and excellent documentation. My only problem with it is the armored cable you're using is not intended to be used as a cord. The constant flexing could cause the wire inside to break. With 240V that could lead to a really dangerous sitituation.

Excellent. That's what I thought but wanted to be sure. Thanks

I have a pot I want to convert to an electric boil kettle that has a polycarbonate sight glass. I've read that the max temp for PC is 250 degrees but I was wondering if anyone else had any problems with a similar setup.

Happy Shmappy. We're still dairy enough to be cheeseheads! Welcome Dolphard. Mark from Grafton WI (formerly from West Allis)

You could try subbing some malt with simple sugars like corn or table sugar. I did that with my last IPA and it dried it out nicely.

Mind if I ask how you installed it? The manufacturer recommends troweling on cement. I was thinking of just using a latex based adhesive in a caulk gun. Mark

Free is good!

Hmmmm... Makes sense. I'll have to try that. Thanks

The cooler holds about 8.5 gallons. i don't understand what you mean, why the spacers at the corner?

Other than than being a bit creepy I would think it would work. I believe those things are rated for something like 500 lbs. You'd have to bolt it to the floor though.

I'm designing a RIMS system and at least to start I want to use my cooler mashtun. I've got a manifold I made from copper tubing with hacksawed slots. Would this work better or should I go to a SS braid?

When I first started brewing I was using bleach as a sanitizer. My wife got sick of me ruining tee shirts so she bought a scrub top at a 2nd hand store that's a purplish collage of pictures of Elvis as a joke. I wore it once to a club brew and now it's kinda become a tradition.

Ok, I think I know what you're doing. If you're going to control the one element manually or have them both on one SSR then all you need to do put the float switch inline between the PID and SSR. Water level drops, no signal to the SSR, no power to element, one happy brewer.

Well I can think of two ways to make it fail safe, well three with your method. Have the float switch control a small relay that disconnects the signal to the 2 SSRs or have a solenoid valve on the outlet of the tank that shuts so no more water can drain out when that level is reached. I don't...

I've been looking at doing the same with my HLT but I was going to put the float switch inline with the PID output to the relay controlling the element. When the water level drops the element can't be energized and burn up. That way it is protected if the water level drops because of a leak...

OK, I was right. I'm being anal and should should have a beer instead. I think I'll wait until after breakfast. Thanks all

What is the best orientation of a plate chiller to get maximum efficiency out of it? By that I mean horizontal/vertical, wort outlet up/down etc. I was thinking that feeding the wort in from the lower port would insure that all the air was out and give maximum contact. But then the cooling...

Whoa Thadius. Sorry if I hit a nerve. I wasn't really serious about most of what I said. Sometimes my sparkling wit :) doesn't translate well to this medium. I called it temporary because the only thing that would permanent would be the hood. The rest would only be brought out on brew day. Like...

You're right! They have a nice 36" SS 250CFM unit for $100 complete with dent :) My wife would be jealous. A bit more than I was looking to spend but after getting a blower and fabricating some kind of hood this probably would be cheaper. Not to mention looking really cool! Thanks

Inspected? We don't need no stinking inspections! Seriously we live in a rural area and I doubt the part time building inspector has much experience in home breweries. Besides as a "temporary" installation it doesn't require inspection. At least IMHO. But I was wondering what kind of CFM range...