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what seller? i haven't found any ~300 micron mesh in large enough sheets (for less than the retail seller i listed) i need a 48x24 inch piece and a 24x24 piece or a 48x36 piece.

add a float to the end of the tubing and you're all good.

i've waited outside of three floyds to grab a few cases of zombie dust before, never longer than a half hr or so, but hey, it was worth it to me. :rockin:

This isn't exactly true. Copper is relatively inert, and will do nothing to wort or beer. When it is heavily oxidized, it can produce verdigris (greenish blue compound, what gives the Statue of Liberty it's color). Verdigris is soluble in beer, and poisonous. However, as long as you clean...

those of you that have done this, where did you buy your stainless mesh? i'm looking for ideally 316 stainless, ~300 mesh size, but all the vendors i've found through google list prices that are pretty much equal to just ordering one from...

no, color wont matter. mine started white, and is now tan. i don't bother doing anything more than rinsing it out afterward and drying it, then shake out any husk stragglers. it's pre-boil and there's dirtier/grosser stuff in/on your grain.

Patriots 38

This is definitely what I would reccomend.

This is true to an extent, but different types of beer such as pilsners stouts etc require different mineral content for best flavor. Simply saying reverse osmosis is a no-go for all grain brewing is misinformation. RO allows for a consistent baseline from which you can build water profiles to...

I do not believe this to be true, and know for a fact multiple commercial breweries and a multitude of all-grain homebrewers use RO. You simply add the salts/ions needed to the water.

I've seen multiple three vessel HERMS or RIMS systems that also have a direct fire burner mounted under MLT. Can anyone explain why you would need/want a direct fire option if you have a HERMS or RIMS setup? Or were these set ups probably direct fire originally and then converted/upgraded to...

i wonder if you could do something like inverting a shot glass over the top of the bottle, perhaps with a rubber disc to better seal. in theory this would allow CO2 to burp out, but would limit O2 going in. sort of like a budget spunding valve.

i suppose you could always use it with a lower pressure regulator, havent tried that myself but i've heard it discussed before.

i use a KAB4 for 5-10 gal batches. its a great burner but in my opinion it'd be overkill for 3 gal.

You cannot oxidize a beer pre-fermentation, you actually want to add oxygen to the wort prior to pitching the yeast, so that they ferment cleanly/quickly. Many people use air stones and oxygen tanks to do this.

Anything metal can be sanitized, anything rubber/plastic (o rings and beer line) should be dedicated sour-only.

What are you worried about/anticipating a headache with? I don't see a difference carbing with sugar or CO2, unless you're thinking the bottle conditioning is dependent on the priming/bottling sugar?

As long as you are sure your keg will hold pressure, you don't *have* to keep them hooked up to the CO2 the entire time, and they don't even have to be carbonated. Simply fill the keg, purge headspace, and store. You already know how to handle the decrease in hop aroma/dry hopping. These kegs...

Bottle bombs. Either those bottles had weaknesses, they got more carbing sugar than the rest, or some other reason. Perhaps the new location was a bit warmer than the earlier storage location. Perhaps they got slightly infected and some bottles have more carbonation than others.

Rdwhahb.