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Put some cam locks on your pump and you can use it wherever you want in the process. I don't see a problem using it for both tasks.

I started with a mr beer kit in 2009, did a few extract kits and am now doing BIAB, and have inspired at least two friends to start brewing in the last year. Next steps for me are refining my recipes, learning more about water chemistry, and more experience with sours, wild fermentation and...

No, it doesnt. After the first prize is drawn, theres 2879 possible winners so the odds are always 1 in 2880ish not 1 in 64.

I was thinking about doing this except using a corny keg shell instead of a pipe/tube. Decided against it as you would just have to have another vessel to heat sparge water in, etc. thrn I decided to just stick with no sparge BIAB lol

There's a for sale section on this board...

There seems to be a balance, too often and the fun decreases, but not often enough the skills get rusty and your next brew session can have... Issues. Enjoy the break, and congrats on the upcoming nuptials.

I would think that You run the risk of not recirculating through the mash fully if you do this, water (or wort) follows the past of least resistance so may just channel from the return down the outside of the bag to the drain.

I am not a fan. The price is high, and the look is a bit 'over done' for my tastes. The majority of the hardware (buckles, snap hooks, abundance of rivets) is unnecessary, I would prefer a simple bucket style carrier, needing only a wide leather band, round base, and a loop to carry by. This...

as long as the tubes are full of liquid, there will be no exposure to oxygen, regardless of size.

he's asking about using a 15.5 gal sanke keg as a fermenter. personally, i think that there's not enough head space, but 13-14 gal could work.

no need for rice hulls in any BIAB recipe. just like you said, rice hulls are meant to keep the grain bed from over-compacting in 3 vessel brewing, leading to a stuck sparge. in BIAB, this doesn't happen, and even if the grain compacts in the bottom of the bag, it'll just drain out the side.

Jb weld is two liquids that are mixed, while water weld is a putty, I doubt it could be thinned down and still dry correctly. Usually people use the Jb weld that comes in the red and black tubes.

I've had plenty of things in milk crates, from full carboys to stacks of hand weights. Well over 40 lbs and never had a failure. Ymmv, but I'll continue to use them without worrying.

+1 for milk crates and NEVER using a handle for a full carboy.

Is this an actual question or a troll attempt?

is this just going to be looked at? or does it have to be drinkable? because you could make a "beer" with not much malt and a lot of sugar to get a clearer color that wouldn't react with the food coloring as much.

The curved bottom bag works well and is easier to sew than a true cylinder. Typically BIAB bags are longer than the kettle/pot is tall, so the shape of the bottom of the bag doesn't matter when it's in the pot, and curved bottom keeps it from popping out the sides, and encourages the bag to...

You answered your own question, just use a strainer. You could also use a small voile (BIAB material) bag, or as the first reply said, not worry about it.

Looks like you're probably 40 min at this point. I typically stir it in well at the beginning, and then one more time at the 30 min mark. Keeping a consistent temperature is more important than stirring though. Good luck with the rest of the brew day

I would personally go with steel, as it's likely much cheaper than 80/20, particularly if the friend will weld for beer. It's not that hard to modify steel, just cut and weld or drill holes and bolt on accessories.