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So it looks like ive got an infection, white pellicle probably lacto, of a Nelson Sauvin/Vienna SMaSH. Ive got a few questions id like to put out there for some opinions: It tastes fine right now so how long should i let it sit in the secondary, theoretically just allowing it to become a sour...

I think it will definitely be worth waiting for. Early samples of about anything will taste bitter. Dark beers will almost always get better with a little time for the roasty/toasty malts to level out too. Good luck, should be a good beer!

Personally, so extremely anecdotal and non-scientific, i get better efficiency when i mash out. I assume, and have heard, that the higher temp helps loosen sugars making them easier to wash out. May be BS but i personally have seen better results when i do mash out.

5lb syrup x 36ppg=180 1lb light crystal x 30ppg=30 (if mashed) .5 special (50) x 29ppg=14.5 (if mashed) total=224.5/5= 44.9 max OG That is assuming 85% efficiency on the mash and it sounds like you steeped so go ahead and take 10ppg per lb off both those --> ~210 ttl/5= 42 max og 42 is your real...

Well a fairly easy way to lager w/out a cooler is with one of those plastic tubs and frozen water bottles/ice. I can keep my temp w/in a few degrees once the wort and surrounding water are at the same temp, not perfect but good enough for most purposes.

Yea i had 8oz Special B in my Brown ale and it gave it a nice dark fruit/ raisen character. Really use a brewing calc, hopville is easy and free, and type in your recipe. It will tell you around how dark of a beer you will get from your recipe along with some other parameters and form this you...

Yea if you really just want to start learning about the grains around 1lb should be good. If you want to go to 1.5 or 2 you can but just know it may start to dominate, some grains can dominate at way less than a pound. Some specialty grain i like are: Belgian Aromatic Victory Honey Malt And...

Well the only thing with BIAB is you usually run a dilute mash so this step volume thing wouldnt match up with that. I sometimes just split the difference and save some of my volume of water to add as well as draw off some of my mash and heat that up as well to raise the temp. You could also add...

The coffee filters are a good idea... may have to use that next time.

That seems easy enough, thanks for the info! You ever use the magnetic strip you can cut and stick onto things... its really cheap ($8 for 25' at walmart)

I would taste it right after carb if possible. If it tastes like the yeast need to some more work leave it at room temp(RT) although if you have a spot cooler than 70 you may want to put it there. If it tastes generally how you want it throw it in the fridge for a few weeks. I have seen better...

You can always just take a grav reading at 3 days... if it is close to the FG you can just follow those instructions. I usually let my dry hopped beers go 11-14 days, or more depending on how big of a beer it is, then do my dry hopping. The recipe states that you DH in the primary then transfer...

What kind of magnets do you use/ can you get them for cheap somewhere im guessing?

Maybe obvious but a good reminder is always nice... start with distilled water and it will last a while. I make mine with DH2O and it will last through multiple bottlings, brews, and yeast starters then my the time i get through all that ive usually just lost enough volume that i go ahead and...

I believe that too much O2 will end up inhibiting the yeast to some degree because they are having to chemically deal with the O2/ nothing likes too much O2. Really just atmospheric air being constantly stirred into it will be fine. Direct aeration is typically used to get a high amount...

I noticed it now that you pointed it out... at least i learned something from Yooper in the process.

Well ill say this... beer adventuring tends to be pretty addictive.

Yea and if im being honest... it looks delicious! Fermentation is never pretty so just let it ride.

Yea no worries about some variability in temp... generally lower temps in that range will get you more maltose so it will be a lower FG in the end, higher temps will be a higher FG/ less attenuated. 154 is a nice middle temp and i usually use about a 152-156 range due to the low level of...

Just use a yeast calculator to know how much yeast you get from your starter then decant it into separate containers. I put 150mL into mason jars. Then make sure you take down the #'s and org date of manufacture so you can guess at your yeast viability in the future. I get 8-10 batches off each...