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Pics as promised Compressor exterior Evaporator interior Fermenters and grain storage

Hops At least that's what I use as 'beer enhancer'

Yes, I did. I used a portable air conditioner and gently moved the evaporator similarly to build a glycol chiller from an ac. The evaporator is interior with the condenser/compressor in the brewery space. I removed all of the control circuitry and built it out with an inkbird and relays. It is...

I have a similarly sized space, a detached one-car garage. It houses my shop, tools and my brewery. I have approximately 8 x 15 brewery space(3 vessel) with 4 x 8 walk-in fermentation chamber/grain storage. In this space I have two tables with under shelves, a large utility sink and 6tap...

For sure. I made the first one with four slots, it does the job just fine. Then I made another with six because it fits the post in any orientation, as a wrench should.

Not that I've ever seen. The handles on pin lock kegs generally would not allow for a flat wrench like this to work. I made a wrench for pin locks from a deep socket. I cut 6 slots(so it fits either post)for the pins with a cutoff wheel.

I don't bother with a CIP ball for my cf10. It is so easy to remove the lid and clean it by hand. But, I don't mind cleaning in my brewery, in fact, I actually enjoy it. If not, I probably would have given up brewing a while ago.

I have some poppets like that. I use an awl to push the poppet out from the top. I've ruined some trying to pry them out with pliers. I set the post upright on the table, then push down with awl in the center of the poppet head(some times it takes a little whack with my palm), the poppet will...

You are already on the right path. On my cf10, I orient the butterfly valve vertically rather than horizontally and use a 2"TC x 1/2"mpt when dumping trub/yeast harvesting. The reducer on the butterfly valve will tame the flow out of the valve.

Awesome! thanks hopefully I can also get frost in mine.

@augiedoggy - this is brilliant! I currently have a stainless coil in my uni and would like to try this. Do you find there is a good thermal transfer between the vinyl and the stainless? Do you need to keep the glycol colder than if using an internal coil?

yes. You cant cut the probe and have it still function. There is a twist of two metals inside the probe and the must stay intact up to the tip. in a pinch you could use fittings on the outside of the bulkhead to decrease penetration into the kettle

@Blazinlow86, would you mind giving your review/opinion on the spike stone setup itself? I went a similar route but pieced it together myself. My concern was that if the sintered stone itself were ever damaged or compromised, could just the stone be replaced. I reached out to spike with this...

I use one at the dump valve of my unitank so I can see trub/yeast/beer layers and know better when to stop the dump.

Entered! Thanks Brew Swag, looking forward to trying this yeast

Here are the instructions that come with a rebuild kit, should you choose to do so. It's a fairly straight forward process

I would say not. I don't use the same mash tun so I can't answer specific to that false bottom, but it looks like my crushed grain, maybe a touch coarser than mine. I think it looks good.

Generally speaking, two tablespoons is one ounce. Three teaspoons per tablespoon, so one tsp is approximately 5 grams. Your first finding of two tablespoons per ounce(1.1 close enough) was correct.

The break material in the jar is normal as previously stated. Maybe there is more in your jars due to more extract. Mine turn darker, but not that dark, again more extract is likely the reason. Left is unprocessed and right has been processed. Also, these are made with AG 2row, when I've...

Kitchen fridge in the house Mini fridge in the house Kegerator in the shop/brewery Mini fridge for hops and yeast in brewery Walk-in refrigerated fermentation chamber And, a glycol chiller, if that counts