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Yesterday I did my first wet test with my cheap control box and after about 2 hours of testing the PV temperature reading started to jump very high then drop back to normal. Attached are two screenshots from a video I took with it happening. So far I did... Pin to pin check on all wiring Pin...

Wet test going well. I had to do a 5 degree offset in the PID to match my lab grade thermometer. I have tested at 170F and 160F, and the same offset is required. Anyone else have similar experience with requiring an offset with a Chinese RTD attached to an Auber PID?

So like any DIYer, I have already begun modifying my setup again. I am working towards an eBIAB setup now. Just finished modifying my simple controller with a used Auber PID. Everything seems to be working from a dry test. Tomorrow I will install the RTD into my kettle and do a wet test (boil)...

A little late on posting my brew I did for Homebrew Day. A Bavarian Wit... Was supposed to be a Belgian Wit but the year strain I wanted, WLP400, was out of stock at my LHBS. So I had to improvise.

This will be my propane kettle that I will use at clubs to brew (if I ever join one). I run electric at home.

Here are the wheels I used. White is a grinding wheel I used for cleaning up the sharp edges after the cut was complete. Yellow is the cutting wheel I used. This is a cutting wheel, not a grinding wheel. This thing is thin.

Thank you. I took my time slowly scoring the steel with the angle grinder until it cut through. I would say it took 5-10 minutes. During that time I used two cutting wheels to make it easier to maintain the radius. I rested the guard against the handle the whole time to control the radius also...

Yes! I bought it at the dollar store a couple years back and did the same thing on my cooler mash tun. Thought I would continue the theme with my keggle.

I wasn't sure where to put this, and the DIY forum felt a little over the top since this is a simple weekend project with no real novelty. So I picked up a keg off the For Sale forum for $40. I cut the top off with an angle grinder (no jig) and sanded the edges for safety. I then did a quick...

My Great Pyrenees cannot leave my side during a brew day. I also have a St Bernard, but she does not join in.

Now I only have a 25 foot immersion chiller (works fine for my 5 gallon batches) and I was concerned about this too. But after 2 batches on my eKettle, I will say, the element can handle me gently setting the chiller directly on it. Not sure if I would be in the same place with a 50 foot...

So I just did my first element build on a 15 gallon kettle for 5 gallon batches. I ended up putting the element only a finger width above the bottom at the end of the element. I am happy with the results. Just remember the element will sag about a 1/4 inch from the mounting location to the end...

If you are going temporary/still growing your system, I would go this route. I am actually using this now on my eBoil Kettle (only thing that is electric so far).

Thank you! Here is a very crude schematic. You just have to manage 3 wires (L1, L2 and GND) since there is no need for N in this setup. No bells and whistles here, just pure function. I hope in years to come to build a nice control panel when I go to a 3 kettle system indoors. As long as I am...

Fermentation off to a great start. Also added a couple pictures of my brew day.

First brew day went off without an issue. I shaved nearly an hour off my typical day. This kettle heats up water so fast! Here's a video... https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10100637322252957&id=6602901

Being an electrical engineer, I decided to dip my big toe into the electric brewing world with upgrading my 8 gallon economy kettle with a 15 gallon Ss Brewtech Kettle along with a 5500W all stainless steel element from Brewhardware.com. I already have a 240v 30a outlet in my garage for EV...

Just use Beersmith with any recipe in the database here and scale it to your equipment. The mobile version works perfect for this.

That's a cool idea. I think you will need to create a new equipment profile with a very low brewhouse efficiency based on trial and error results. Or change the potential in the grain. This is in the grain settings. (I.e. 1.037 to 1.020) You can also copy the grains and change the °L based on...

Try the same recipe at 155 and see what happens. It maybe the mash is actually lower than 152.