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I've been trying to understand this for a while now, and I still don't get it. Why does the BJCP guideline for Belgian Dubbel (18B) list the SRM as 10-17? In practice, it seems to me that most Dubbels I've tasted appear to have an SRM that's easily in the 20's, often closer to 30 or darker...

It hasn't been updated in a while, so double check prices if you're going to place an order, but I found this thread helpful as a starting point. Seems like something that would be worth reviving/updating. My personal experience: I've had good luck with BMW and like that I can set up and save...

Set up a surveillance camera and the first time the kiddies and friends get into your taps, upload the evidence to YouTube and email the link to all their parents. Social media shame is the new padlock.

I think most of what you're describing has to do with US-05 being a medium-low flocculating yeast, while Nottingham is known for being highly flocculant. I think that likely factored in to Edwort's decision-making process in designing this simple, quick recipe (choosing Nottingham). With...

Kinda pissed at my LHBS. I sent an email in advance with the grain bill for a partial mash version of this recipe to make sure they had everything and specifically called out the pale chocolate as I know that's an important part of the recipe. I show up and "we don't stock pale chocolate,"...

Yeah I've definitely seen a lot of people claim that they get equally good clarity without a secondary in some of the threads that discuss "to secondary or not," but I don't have personal experience with this to say exactly what their methods would be.

You could try cold-crashing and finings.

http://fantasticcontraption.com/

Whattaya mean, "these people?"

I'd say it's 10C. American Brown Ale but IBU's might take it out of that style category.

Rebel XS with 50mm 1.8. I've been itching to upgrade for some time, but still amazed at what I can get out of this little guy....

It's only a 1.052 beer, I wouldn't bother with a starter unless the yeast is old or doesn't seem active.

Activate it several hours up to 24 hours before you plan to pitch the yeast and leave it on the counter. Ideally, you want to see the package swell before you pitch it.

I believe that kit is saying you should be able to drink the beer 5 weeks after brew day, so that includes fermentation and bottle conditioning, yes. As far as transferring to secondary, 48 hours is not long enough, most folks will leave their beer in primary for 2-3 weeks. A lot of people...

:off: Are you cleaning your bottles first or just sanitizing with the vinator?

You don't have to sanitize your boil kettle. It's all good.

I know it's not traditional for this style, but do you think it would be acceptable to bitter this beer with a small amount of nugget instead?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/how-make-yeast-starter-pictorial-updated-340261/

You'll likely be happier with the full 5-gallon setup. Just simpler: you won't have to worry about splitting batches between two fermenters.