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I've done it before. I transported the beer after about 2 weaks in the primary and cold crashed once I got it home to clear it up. It turned out to be one of my best batches.

Just go for it. I skipped extract and went straight to all grain. To your original question "How did you convince yourself to take time to learn?" More like how do I convince myself to get off HBT and get back to work.

I like the stubby Red Hook bottles. Sierra Nevada as well.

If you have a heatstick this method works like a charm. Put the bottles in a bucket and heat up the water with a heatstick. Periodically check to see when the labels are falling off. You don't have to bring the water to a complete boil but it doesn't hurt. My friends never rinse the bottles...

I used silicone on all of the connections. It does slip down over it but you can really force it together for a tight fit.

I built the heatstick most of you are probably familiar with awhile back using these instructions- http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick Because heatsticks are so useful I wanted to build another. While at HD I came across some alternative piping that provides a better fit so I thought...

I built the same heat stick and it looks like you are using a different "reducer" than what is specifiedin the instructions you linked to. If you go back and get the 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch coupling reducer you should be good to go. The coupler than comes with the drain pipe is not used...

You may have overshot your mash temp becasue you pre-heated the mash tun. I have never pre-heated and I am pretty much dead on using an app called Brewzor Calculator for android. In step 3 you heat your sparge water to 170 °F on the stove. The goal is that when you add your sparge water...

I just picked up a DO meter to measure the oxygen content of my wort prior to fermentation and was hoping somebody could help me out with target concentrations. I use pure O2 with a stone to oxygenate. If I am fermenting a 1.060, 1.070, 1.080 or a 1.090 beer using California Ale from White...

You are correct.. Otherwise known as the common. Sweet setup you have there.

4 and 5 can be used as a voltage source for inputs 2 and 3. If you provide a 12 volt signal to input 2 (gate) the state of your output relay will change for the duration that the 12 volts is supplied. If you send a 12 volt signal to 3 (reset) it will reset your timer. Do you mind me asking...

It has an NTC temp probe so it wouldn't be reading 60 degrees if it wasn't plugged in. What is the setpoint set too?

Looks to me like it is not a dual stage controller. From the description, it seems like it can only be used for heating. Somebody else on here found this...

All great points... I use a $30 digital scale from Bed Bath and Beyond. I brought it to work and checked it with some calibrated weights and it was accurate within 0.5 lbs up to 100 lbs. If you are weighing out 5 gallons of water, that gives you about a 1% accuracy. I don't think I could...

I second using a scale and weighing out the volumes. I batch sparge so its super easy to determine volumes if you already know the tare weight of your equipment. I tried measuring out volumes in a container when I started and it is time consuming. Using a scale is quick and way more precise...

I am thinking of doing this to limit the amount of trub I transfer into the carboy. By the time I start the transfer all of the trub should be settled at the bottom of the kettle. I won't pick any of it up because I am transferring from the top of the liquid column the entire time. Just a...

Yeah.. screw a hose barb fitting onto your bulkhead and then take a piece of tubing a couple of feet long and attach your screen or whatever you use to filter the hops to something that floats so it picks up wort just below the surface.

Anyone ever try putting their boil kettle pickup tube on a float so you transfer from the top down instead of solely from the bottom where the trub is?

I have a large stainless steel kettle with a ball valve on the bottom which has a a cylindrical wire mesh screen connecteed to it on the inside of the kettle to filter out the hop pellets and hot/cold break. This method of filtering the trub doesn't seem to be the best way to do it. Has...