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I would disagree that ambient air is the way to go. Before and after fermentation, that would work OK. However, during vigorous fermentation, the temperature will rise rapidly in the wort. The freezer will turn on and cool the AIR to your setpoint. However, the mass of air that has cooled to...

My short take: Air temperature will fluctuate much more than wort temperature, and the air in your freezer will continue to cool once the compressor turns off (walls are still much colder than air for a whiles after compressor shuts off), hence the fluctuations you see in an empty freezer...

Water chemistry is much more complex than dilution of wort to reach a SG goal. I would suggest you either read up on water chemistry, pH, buffering capacity, etc etc (considerable amount of time and effort required to understand), OR use Bru'n Water assuming distilled or RO water, adjust your...

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Yeah, another thing that seems like personal preference. Either way is probably fine. Kegs ultimately take less space and I don't have a lot of extra room in my place, so storing in kegs for bulk aging is a big space saver (plus I can fill individual bottles right from the keg and continue...

Neighbor does not want me feeding any spent grains to chickens anymore, thinks it hurts their egg production. Compost now.

I secondary my sour beers so they can bulk age for several months before I move them to a keg for extended aging. I haven't secondary'd any other beers since my 3rd or 4th batch way back in the day. If I am going to dry hop, I usually hold ferment temp for 2+ weeks, cold crash for a few days...

If you choke the flow down with a discharge-side valve, you can reduce cavitation and entrainment of bubbles. I recirculate during the boil to disinfect the pump and tubing prior to whirlpooling and usually choke way down to get low flow, which reduces the probability of the pump...

Technically it is against UPS/FedEx policy, but if you don't tell them, they generally don't care/find out unless it leaks.

Unfortunately, this bill does not provide for shipment of alcohol from anyone other than "by a licensed winery or brewery". So another option for getting beer from licensed vendors, but not official legality for homebrewers. H.R. 1718 Text

If you can afford it, I would go with stainless. Less likely to be damaged by trauma (dropping, over-tightening on threads, other accidents, etc.).

Pump is handy, but not necessary. I primarily use them for whirlpooling while I chill, but have used for transferring hot water or wort between kettles, or between kettle and cooler mash tun. I have moved away from heating my mash and sparge water in kettles and pumping to mash tun, and now...

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I find that rubbing a pellet between my fingers and breaking it up, then smelling, gives a better feel for aroma. Maybe you can better distinguish that way. Or maybe you do it and pick the one you think would be most pleasing for whatever you are brewing.

Thanks for the interesting read. I assume one could maintain a pH (with chemical addition) within the tolerance of the organism throughout fermentation and force higher attenuation that way, however impractical that may be.

Yes, add all the dregs. Leave a little beer in the bottle so you can swirl up everything off the bottom to dump in. The amount of bugs in one bottle is tiny, so the more dregs, the better. If you want sour, make sure the beer has lacto and/or pedio. Brett only beers will not make it sour...

Try to order from a vendor that is closer to you with a shorter ship time (checkout the FedEx and UPS maps). You could also add multiple ice packs. Keep an eye on tracking information and try to get home quickly if the package is going to sit in the sun. I have ordered a couple times online...

Any pics of your setup?

Make sure it closes all the way, put Damp Rid or EvaDry dehumidifier in there, and a small fan to circulate air.

Have you called the hotel and asked who supplies their sausage?