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I've been brewing all grain for several years and managing all aspects of the process as best I can. However, it's gotten hot outside and I don't like to take time away from my son, and my all grain brew day is kinda long... I tried the search function before asking this question and didn't...

The white whale for me? A true American light lager. (Mostly because I don't have enough refrigeration). A bright, vibrant IPA. Not a style that I brew often enough and they mostly wind up like American Pale Ales

The extracts are used for bittering. The extracts we hobbyists see are generally comprised of high alpha/flavor neutral hops and marketed as a convenient way to brew bitter beers with a minimum of hop residue.

I would not dry hop for 7-10 days. I would be concerned about picking up grassy flavors. I generally try not to go over 5 days over dry hops. Kinda jealous at your hop selection. I have hops in both freezers myself...but still, those are some tastey selections. Since the hops you list...

Sometimes it just takes the intestinal fortitude to put a beer in the competition. My advice if you're curious and you think you've got a decent beer, enter it and see what happens. Otherwise: Understanding the guidelines you'll be judged against Process control Temperature control Pitch...

My kegerator came with commercial sanke connectors. However sanke, ball lock, and pin lock connectors all pretty much use a 1/4" swivel barb to connect your lines to whatever keg connector you use. Hence, with a few minutes and a wrench I was able to able to swap from sanke to ball lock...

If you brew long enough, you're going to break a hydrometer. It is was it is and luckily they're fairly inexpensive.

Drink it.

You can make drinkable beer inexpensively but much of it depends on what all equipment you have available already. You could start with a $20 Harbor Freight stainless pot for a kettle, a brew bucket to ferment in, and package your beer in reused 2 liter plastic soda bottles. Brew light ale...

This may be a repetitive question but my Googlefu is weak at the moment. I am interested in some 2.5 gallon test batches. I have a closet full of 5 gallon kegs. Provided the keg is properly purged and I do my usual closed transfer, I would be able to keg the smaller batch in the larger keg...

I've used muslim sacks, I've used mesh bags, and I've used a couple different stainless mesh hop spiders. They all worked in varying degrees. Recently though, I began using a whirlpool return to recirculate during chilling. This is gets all the hops piled up in the center of the kettle and...

BTW - I used RO or distilled water to make Star San. It doesn't get cloudy and seems to last longer that way.

They're damn difficult to get rid of as well. It takes the right kind if strong insecticide to wipe them out.

Is this who you're looking for? https://ccyeastlab.com/ There's a homebrew supplier relatively near you in Comanche: https://www.kegconnection.com/about-us/ Fort Worth is kind of "the big city" for West Texas. There's a couple good homebrew shops there and they'll ship, too.

I've been reading that Lutra supresses hops. I haven't tried it any hoppy beers myself but all the malt-forward beers I've brewed with it have all been delightful. I appreciate that once Lutra is done, it flocculated well and makes a clear beer. I guess I'll stick with US-05 for my APA/IPA...

Well shucks! I wonder why though? Not enough buyers?

I brewed a dry irish stout with old LME once. Tasted like it had dish soap in it so I dumped the batch.

T-58 will work. I've brewed a saison with it before. I like the yeasty-peppery flavor. Next time see if you can buy a saison kit with BE-134 yeast instead of T-58.

I just read all six pages of this and.....😡

Rather than go off the faucet, try a different route. Get a threaded tee and shutoff valve from the hardware store. Turn your cold water off under the sink at the valve and put the tee between the valve that comes out of the wall and the cold water supply line that runs to the sink. Put the...