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I probably just need to read more in order to understand this -- I feel really dense today. I don't understand how to get the water profile to work-out in the advanced water calculator.. I assume the mineral levels you listed are after all addtions? from the "Mash Water Report Before...

I have a 25ft 3/8od stainless HEX in my hlt. Typically I get good flow rate on the recirculation side, though the 3/8 does restrict things a bit. I have riptide pump grads and so can control the flow rate pretty easily (got them mostly for fly sparging. Ball valves work fine but are a pita)...

Under attenuation is exactly what I've been fighting the last couple brews. Damn. Wish I had asked earlier. Fantastic information. Thank you

Ya. Yooper is definitely a great source of know how and experience. I'm going to have to look at the advanced water calculator. Probably going to have more questions than answers tho. Lol. Thanks for the help!

Here you go. Thank you for your help. I followed you on Brewers friend.

What is a HEX output?

My actual starting water was reverse osmosis from the store

I was using the Brewers friend water chemistry thing. Lol. I fully admit that I have no clue what I'm doing. Basically I picked the "balanced" target profile. Chose a starting profile that is basically ro water. And fiddled with the additions until the calculator said all my ions were within...

Forgot to attach a pic

I tried doing water additions for the first time today. I used 16.5g water for my brew. 8.5 went in the mash. Rest went into the hlt for herms temp control and stuff. Question I have.. the water looked milky after I added the minerals. And now that I've finished sparging my hlt is coated in...

I'm doing a brew today and I got to thinking about how I monitor my mash temperature. I have a keggle gas fired herms set up. Typically I heat my hlt to be hotter than my mash temp and recirculate through the herms coil the whole mash. I measure the temp using an igrill 2 Bluetooth temp monitor...

I agree with kh54s10. Put that in the fridge and let it cold crash and settle some more before you do anything.

1) or run a tube from your airlock pipe into a bucket of sanitizer (this would be a blowoff tube).. most larger conical fermenters have a blowoff tube design.. smaller fermenters are setup for airlocks. the only question about airlock vs blowoff tube is how much headspace does your fermenter...

many folks who use fridges to ferment (indeed many who build their own chambers as well) tend to use a heat lamp or light bulb in a paint can type setup. this only works for having one beer/temp range in the fridge at a time however, since the heat is applied to the ambient air in the chamber...

I dunno if my yeast are mad about the heat wrap I use or not, but at times I swear I can hear a military cadence and marching in my fermenters... in all seriousness, as long as you keep the temp in the fermenter within range, it should be fine.. I use a 60w heat tape on my fermenters in the...

yep! guilty.. you have to ensure the silicone hoses aren't restricted in any way.. or you're gonna get wet!

When I did my first sanke fermenter, I silver soldered a copper coil around the keg and then used thermally conductive silicone adhesive to fill in the gaps and edges around the coil.. this plus a layer of insulation ( I just use a keg jacket like you would for keeping a keg cold at a party)...

damn this is clever!

I ferment in sanke kegs with the "SANKE FERMENTER CONVERSION KIT" from brewhardware.com and cool-zone jacket/heat tape for temp control from gotta-brew.com I like how cheap the fermenters are; used kegs can be had fairly easily and removing the spear is dead-simple.. I can ferment between 5 to...

subbed. interested to hear your thoughts