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I can't imagine many are in your camp. These things are garbage, sticking and leaking. Maybe they'll do for a keg consumed in a day at a party or other event, but not for one on tap for a few weeks or more. And I wouldn't use anything but stainless; even the Perlick 525PC that I bought when I...

Even though you mixed up your terms, your point was pretty clear, which is why I tried to comment on the terminology. However, this comment is incorrect. It's Less water to start, less water boiled off, for the same water (and gravity) at the end.

In simple terms, it takes the same amount of fermentables to reach the same FG (which I'd call OG, as it's the gravity into the fermenter, whereas I refer to final gravity after fermentation as FG). Since there's less boil-off, you simply start with less water, which means the pre-boil gravity...

I've been using my 35L Fermentasaurus for ~15 months and am very pleased with its durability. The plastic is very scratch-resistant; I'm not aware that I have any scratches on the inside or outside of mine, including where it sits on the metal stand. And I treat mine pretty roughly. I pick it...

The weldless tri-clamp bulkhead is your best option. Brew Hardware has a standard bulkhead (which is what my boil condenser is attached with). As for during the mash, just put a blank tri-clamp cover over the hole; then your mash can go all the way to the rim if necessary.

Your boil-off with the condenser should be under a gallon, even for 10 gallons into a fermenter after kettle to fermenter loss, so you'll just barely make it. I know it's hard to buy this beautiful kettle with all welded ports and then add a weldless one manually, but you can definitely put...

Similarly, I used this 40mm carbide tipped hole saw. I'm pretty sure BrewHardware sells a similar hole saw and provides instructions. The punch is probably the cleanest route, but very expensive unless you're using it for a lot of holes or can share it with your club and amortize the cost.

As many have reported in this thread, the power to maintain a boil is much less than with an open kettle, typically 50-60%. So if you didn't turn down the power during the boil, the overly vigorous "boil over" is expected. Next time, you have to carefully crack the lid to observe the boil...

Bought a 21st Amendment variety pack last month, and damn, that Back in Black was good. So the style is still available, though limited. Also had a draft black IPA at a local brewery in Mt Pleasant, SC last night. It was OK, but too roasted in my mind, a fault of many of the lesser versions...

You should get a 12mm couple, not 1/2" (12.7mm), which will have too much play. IDK if All American Aleworks offers that option, but I expect they do. If not, just buy the coupler directly from Amazon, Grainger, or some other source. You basically just need to know the coupler size (L75?)...

You do realize you're responding to a year-old thread, don't you? I'm sure Wilser would be glad to sell you a bag, but there is no $10 deal.

I'm with mongoose33; I no longer put my boil or WP hops in anything. However, somewhere way back in this thread someone discussed mounting magnets to their hop spider to hold it to the side. Just search 'magnets' in this thread.

Your trepidation about not wanting to drill your brand new kettle is perfectly understandable, especially knowing that you could have had that port added if you knew a few days sooner. However, I added Bobby's weldless TC port to my 20G Spike and have no complaints except it just doesn't have...

As I have posted several times, including a quote a few posts back, I have been extremely happy with the 1.5" TC on my 20 gallon Spike kettle. I recall the reason I went with 1.5" was that I couldn't find a 2" instrument tee in stock at the time I was building my DIY system (and also maybe the...

WTF is a CFC in this respect?

Ditto on another 20G kettle with 1.5" side-mount TC, works fantastic. A little more info is in post #689

Please add me to the top of the winners' list.

As I clarified above, my boil-off/evaporation volume has decreased to less than 50% the open burner rate. Earlier in this thread are references to an option of this design offered by Brew Boss. I think they use a 1/2" camlock to attach to the kettle. I'm not sure anyone here will guarantee...

I guarantee you that your boil-off rate will decrease dramatically; I think mine is 1/2 to 1/3 what it was when I was boiling with an open pot. [I went back and checked, and my boil-off/evaporation reduced from 1.7G/hr to 0.75.] I think I have had 8-10 gallons of waste water in an hour on my...

What's the point of your comment? Is it that your mini-split AC that cost a few hundred dollars but still allows high levels of moisture is preferred to this $125-150 (DIY ballpark) condenser that virtually eliminates moisture in the air. I brew in my basement in a very humid environment and...