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I am brewing an altbier (OG 1.052, using Wyeast 1007 German Ale). It have been fermenting for 2 weeks now, and the gravity move from 1.052 to 1.020 in an orderly fashion (about 6 days) and has not really moved since. It crept down to 1.018, but has been totally stagnant there for 5 days now. The...

Many thanks. I have taken your advice and found a fridge that fits my conical! Now all I need is a heating pad and I have both-way temperature control.

I currently use a 15gal conical fermenter, as I have been making session ales and fermenting at around 70 degrees, which is my garage temperature most of the year. I have recently installled a shed ""brewery" and want to branch out and make lagers. I will also have lower (fluctuating)...

Wow, you leave it for a month in primary? I don't have the patience for that...! The more I read this website though, the more it seems brewers wait. I only have 1 fermenter at the moment, so I guess I need to get a few more fermenters so I have something to do more often...

I have a beer which has a target FG of 1.011. I have fermented with a very low flocculating yeast, so my beer (still in primary but stopped fermenting at around 1.013) is very cloudy with yeast. Should my FG be measured in the primary, or should I consider the reading after racking and fining...

I am making a Northern German Altbier, and am using Wyeast 1007 German Ale yeast. I used 3 packs (the yeast was a little older than I'd hoped) and made a step starter, so I got a good, very active yeast. I pitched that into 10 gallons of wort at an OG of 1.052. It has been fermenting at...

I am making a North German Altbier. I got OG of 1.052 and used a good aggressive starter of Wyeast 1007. I got good fermentation for the first few days, but my fermentation seems to have stopped at about 1.020. My FG is supposed to be around 1.011 area so I know there is more to come. The yeast...

I am not sure that IPA's need a high water pH. The ideal mash pH is around 5.2-5.5, and there are a number of factors which will affect your mash pH. Your actual water pH is not that important. The calcium content, and bicarbonate content of your water are way more important. Also, the darker...

You have a few things going on at he same time here. Whenever changing equipment, it is a good idea to do so slowly. You also seem to have a fairly complicated sparge process. Why not try a batch with a batch sparge ? Throw in 3 litres per kilogram of grain, mash for an hour without a complex...

One question I have : If attenuation is something the yeast do, how does keeping the mash temperature low keep the beer well attenuated?

Wow, last night did my decant and added my second starter volume of wort. I was worried as hell when I decanted because I thought I as pouring all the yeast out (even though I let it settle for 24h in the fridge). I added he fresh wort and aerated and went to bed. This morning we have more...

Thanks Ed. I am going to cross over to White Labs for a couple of batches. I use Wyeast London ale strains like 1968 but will see if I get any difference with White Labs. Will give that recipe of yours a try.

Thanks for the replies, guys. That is a good rule of thumb on the Maltodextrin. I would love to hit the desired FG without any additions, but the recipes I am using give me the flavour and aroma I am after, and these recipes finish up the beer at 1.008 ish. My ideal mouthfeel comes from the...

Thanks Mac - I will try this yeast at a stage. I do ferment pretty close to 70 degrees.

Thanks for this Ed. I agree totally with the simplicity. I am using maris otter, british crystal and that is a good idea about dextrin malt. I am using the Wyeast London ale yeast strains - tried a few of them. Thanks for the point towards Protz and Wheeler. This is my next stop !

I wonder if anyone can help me with recipe design? I use Beersmith 2.0 and find that I start off defininf the style of beer I want, and I get the guideline ranges in terms of OG, colour, bitterness and abv%. The description of the ingredients is pretty helpful, but then I find myself a little...

I am trying to design a recipe for a standard bitter. I am trying to hit the following : 1.036 OG 28 IBU 12 EBC 3.7% abv% as this is in the standard range for an ordinary bitter, and I want to try to make a beer which is fairly light in color, and not too hoppy. One thing I have got...

For my batch this weekend I have tried the techniques on the YeastCalc website and it has worked very nicely. I think I used to let my starters sit for too long in the past (ferment out completely), and then chuck the whole thing into my fermenter at pitching time (with sometimes quite a lot of...

Mash efficiency is indeed partially to do with getting wort out of the tun, but very much to do with converting sugar when the wort is in the tun. This is not as dependent on the mash tun design, other than insulation characteristics. If you hit the right strike temperature, stir your mash...

The way I read the article suggested you add your yeast to 1l wort in step 1, then decant your wort after letting it settle in the fridge. Now you are left with a slurry and a tiny bit of wort. You add 2 l of cooled new wort to this slurry mix. That process is consistent with the yeastcalc...