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so I interpret the chart and table as relating to a pressurized "vent and purge" scenario, right? So not applicable to my question I think the equation for continuous dilution is relevant here: 210000 ppm * ((25 L - 0.0001 L) / 25 L)^4390000 = 0.005 ppm so if I want to achieve 100 ppb O2 (a...

just want to echo this question on dilution ratio - "how many multiples of the vessel volume is needed to get O2 down to __x ppb O2?" I posted a thread about yeast-oxygen scavenging to purge kegs: "can I use "yeast oxygen scavenging" to purge an empty keg?"

I recently read about yeast oxygen scavenging to de-aerate mash water. Was wondering if the same principle could be used to purge a receiving keg, rather than pushing out 5 gallons of sanitizer. If it worked it would also have the benefit of topping up my batch size - I could ferment 4 gallons...

probably 70F fermentation temperature, I didn't add any external heat. I've had success in the past with a summer batch on the second floor of my un-air-conditioned house, and didn't realize how important the extra heat was. Honestly as it sits today I could enter this into a competition as a...

I have a batch of a simple Belle Saison recipe I brewed a couple months ago. Got full attenuation down to 1.002 for this diastaticus strain. It turned out "fine", just really boring. I think the temperature was too low, and my spunding valve inadvertently applied some top pressure. So the...

I guess everyone's idea of a "hassle" is different, but I find canning to be a lot of extra work. Filling the huge canning pot, sanitizing lids, jars, and rings...etc. So canning is shifting work from brewday to pre-brewday, and batch-processing. Freezing a liter of wort that I've already...

aged cheese is made safe due to reducing the "water activity" level: Water Activity in Food for the same reason raw meat can be safely made into shelf-stable beef jerky, by removing enough water that bacteria can't grow

I have a stainless steel growler that I received as a free gift from Williams Brewing

you're right - that article is mostly useless How about this link from the USDA? https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/wcm/connect/4050cb40-c8fb-47ab-ad25-9ecd22e15284/Chapter_2_Controlling_LM_RTE_guideline_0912.pdf?MOD=AJPERES PDF page 6 shows a table of conditions where listeria will not grow...

OK, "years" was a deliberate exaggeration on my part. So I'll accept your premise that there are dormant botulism spores in my wort. I freeze the wort, so they never germinate and grow. I thaw the wort to room temperature and pitch yeast which rapidly drops pH into the safe zone. It's safe...

but as soon as the wort thaws back to room temperature, I'm pitching yeast for my starter, which drops the pH to make it safe again I'm comfortable storing frozen wort for months or even years if I forget about it in the freezer. There is simply nothing happening at those temperatures to make...

where would those microorganisms come from in the first place? Runoff boiling wort into a container, Aussie no-chill style. Straight into the freezer with the cap on. Are you telling me an army of spoilage organisms would somehow breach the cap and invade and colonize my frozen block of wort...

if you drop the notion of bulk-processing, freezing wort makes sense. I don't need a full year's supply of starter wort; I only need enough starter for my next brew day. Just runoff a liter of wort from your kettle prior to the first hops addition, and store it in the freezer until the night...

instead of trying to make it shelf-stable, why not store the wort in the fridge until brew day? Botulinum won't grow below 40F

the microwave sterilization is interesting. Have you found a time-and-temperature table for various materials and container sizes? If I had a quart jar of wort, how long would I need to microwave on high to sterilize it all the way through?

I have served several batches straight off the fermenting keg with great results. Also using a floating dip tube. Only problem was when I jockeyed around kegs to make room in the kegerator. That stirred up the yeast cake and took a day to settle out

Are you using the paint strainer bag in front or behind the siphon? Just wrapping it around the intake?

Yeah I'm glad I noticed they were different before bottling day. I hadn't realized North American 750mL sparkling wine bottles used a different cap size than Euro champagne bottles

Upon closer inspection I looks like I have a mix of sizes. Some of them fit the same 26mm caps as a standard 12 oz beer bottle. The true Euro-style champagne bottles have the larger 29mm rim so I'll need to order the larger bell and caps. I'll skip the corks- I have faith in the crown caps

I collected a bunch of empty champagne and sparkling wine bottles from my neighbors after New Year's. I'm planning on bottle-conditioning a mixed-culture saison. My question is whether I can cap them with a red wing capper and 26mm caps, or if I need to go with cork-and-cage?