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Alpine Beer Co.

I was bending over my bucket aerating my batch once and my glasses fell off into the bucket and I reached in with my bare hands and plucked them out. Beer turned out great, I called it Bifocal Ale.

Every store I've been to I've measured and milled my own grains, of course I've only shopped in two. But it was always my responsibility. If they measured and milled incorrectly then they meed to fix their mistake. That's a big mistake.

Hope its not too late, try this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202038918/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=100000+btu&storeId=10051 Works like a champ!

I too am a sad Flyers fan after tonights game 5, my friend...However, to the young OP that kicke his keg, an empty keg means that the beer was probably pretty damn good. And now is the time to MAKE MORE! I love homebrew.

Check out this article: http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

She knows how much I love this hobby. The absolute joy I get from it (every single aspect of it, by the way.) makes me a much happier person which makes me a better husband and a better father. She also likes the beer I brew.

Green foam probably mostly hops floating on top. 6 ozs is alot of hops and expands quite a bit. Give it time it will clear up. Looks great.

I'm in the Mt Helix area. An East County Homebrew Club? Sounds like a great idea, I'm in!

When using corn sugar does the ratio of water to sugar matter or is the water only to dissolve, boil and sanitize?

Yessss!

I am making a 2 liter starter on Sat and I am using a 2 liter flask. I want to boil the wort directly in the flask but I don't want a boil over. Can I boil enough DME to make a 2 liter starter in 1 liter if water and then top up with water to 2 liters after boil? and If I can, should I top off...

They are vinegar flies (Drosophila species Family: Drosophilidae). From PSU Ag school of entomology: The 2.5-4.5-mm long, maggot-like larvae are cream-colored, lack a sclerotized head capsule, and are tapered from the posterior to the head. They have spiracles (breathing structures) located...

4 gal American IPA + 5 Gal London Pale Ale + 5 Gal Strong Ale _______________ 4107

40 min to strike temp and 20 mins to boil with this (8 gallon boil). http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202038918/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=100000 btu&storeId=10051

I just did a recipe where Beersmith directions had a 2 step sparge with 170 deg water (I use my own equipment profile so hopefully it is calculating for my equipment). The first step brought the grain bed upto about 159 deg and the second addition maintained that temp. My efficiency came aout...

Because beer is great.

Wow, that was close. I did no know I hade to change the mash profile, which makes sense since the program has no idea what I'm thinking. Thanks man!

Have you set up your own equipment profile? There is alot that can be personalized and a tutorial for it somewhere in the help section.

Grain bill: 12.5 lbs pale malt 2 row .5 lbs brown malt .5 lbs crystal 40L .5 lbs chocolate malt Beersmith has me mashing in at a temp of 148 deg for 75 mins. Why would this grain bill require lower mash temps whereas smaller grain bills mash in with temps as high as 156 deg for 45 mins...