Search results

It's a joke. Fermenting at ambient temps.

5.5oz priming sugar for a 5 gal batch? It's been a while since I bottled but that seems high. What volume of CO2 are you trying to get? Personally I would just skip the secondary altogether and bottle whatever volume you get out of the primary. There isn't really any reason to transfer a...

^ listen to Yooper. The starting pH of your water is irrelevant. It is the pH of your mash that you are worried about and that is driven by the alkalinity of the water. That is the point of starting with RO, almost everything has been removed from the water, its a blank slate for you to work...

I would always recommend brewing the recipe as written by the author the first time. Once you've had the beer the way it was originally intended to be you can make tweaks to fit your own personal tastes from there. I've brewed that Centennial Blonde recipe before. It's fine. If you enjoy a...

Good tips so far. For me I think the easiest way is an extended mash (90 min) at ~149F (or step mash). I also like to go low on pH for light beers, I like to shoot for 5.2 pH at mash temps (5.4-ish at room temp). Sulfate can enhance the feeling of crispness and go light on the calcium...

I've got 10' lines in my kegerator, I just roll them up and stick them where there is room inside. Do a Google search for a local homebrew shop in your area. They should be able to answer any questions you have about lines and such, as well as sell them to you.

The beer in the kegs is already carbonated, the increase in pressure has nothing to do with the beer being warm. You have to crank the pressure to serve so that you get a nice pour. It seems counter-intuitive, but with a jockey box you need more pressure to stop a foamy pour at the tap. Most...

A jockey box doesn't really work like you are picturing. The whole idea of the unit is that you cool the warm beer in the coils inside the cooler. You can leave your beer kegs out in ambient temps and by the time the beer travels through the coils and comes out the taps, it's cold. I leave my...

We go back country camping a fair bit in the summer time, my family also has a cabin on a lake, I like to bring homebrew to both of those activities. I've settled on a jockey box setup. I've got a 2 tap jockey box with 75' stainless coils on each tap. This setup pours nice cold beer even when...

Experimental Brewing has an episode on this beer. Interview with Nick Arzner from Block 15, I haven't listened to it, but here's the link. https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-36-sticky-hands-stickier-questions Lots of reference to 110 IBU's online. Experimental Brewing seems to...

I like to take a glass of water and put my disconnects/lines under the water and turn on the gas. Bubbles are easy to spot when the entire thing is under water. You can do the same where the gas line connects to the barb on the regulator, just bend the gas tube upwards towards the regulator...

Russian River Row 2 Hill 56 Clone; I love this recipe. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/russian-river-row-2-hill-56-clone.369668/

^ this. 6oz dry hop sounds tasty to me. I'm usually shooting for anywhere from 4 to 6 oz in my dry hop for a typical IPA. I've gone even higher in a NEIPA. I've never used Topaz before so I may be off here, but keep in mind that Galaxy is very pungent. The 4oz of Galaxy may completely...

5oz of hops total in an IPA seems a bit light to me. I just brewed a pale ale and it had 4oz of hops total. You're doing 1oz of hops per gallon right now, some guys are doing 1oz per gallon + in the dry hop alone. If you've got more hops, use more hops. My last IPA used a total of 357.5g...

I like both. I enjoy brewing and drinking a tasty NEIPA or Hefe, but for a style that should be clear, I enjoy clear. I've got a pale ale kegged now that will go on once this IPA kicks but I'd imagine I'm due for a NEIPA after that.

IPA hopped with Eukanot and Citra.

1. Mounts to something else - inside wall of kegerator for example. 2. It should. 3. No. 4. The splitter should have cut off valves right on the gas lines (example: https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Y_Splitter_with_Shut_Offs_p/y-splitter-3-8.htm). 5. The gas connection to the manifold will be...

Once you are past the yeast growth phase there is no worry about leaving the beer warm. Warmer temps will actually help the yeast finish up and encourage complete attenuation. I would just leave it.

I think the easiest solution to your problem would be to buy a $5 Y-splitter for your regulator so you've got 2 gas lines coming off of it. Once you've got beer in keg #2 you can simply put it in the fridge with keg #1, hook it up to gas and leave it. That is the good old "set and forget"...

It depends on what kind of IPA you are trying to make. If you just want a bitter beer your plan will work. IPA's these days have started to tone down on the bitterness and are full of hop flavor. If you want a lot of hop flavor the only way to get a lot of it is to use a lot of...