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I'm in Canada. The official Grainfather site won't ship to Canada anymore, for reasons I'm sure. I can find the pipework seal kit on other sites but I'm looking at $20 in shipping for $2 worth of o-rings. @RedlegEd - that does help, thanks for that.

Does anyone know the size of the O-ring on the sparge arm? I've been getting some air in the mash during re-circulation (lots of foam), I took a look at the O-ring last night and it's got a couple of little tears/cuts in it. I cannot get the replacement O-rings locally and I'm not paying $20+...

Do you have any spare kegs kicking around you can transfer the carbed cider into prior to transport? Priming in the keg is good and all, but if you are serving for a wedding you'll probably want clear cider. Priming with sugar will leave a layer of yeast on the bottom of the keg, travelling to...

I would imagine that the land lord / condo board might have something to say about a propane burner on the deck. I don't imagine it is particularly dangerous but there are probably rules in place against it. Induction should work, it won't be as quick as propane, but it will boil wort. I've...

That is a personal taste kind of question. It might take you a couple of IPA's to see where you like the bittering addition to be. For me, as a general rule of thumb, I like to take my OG and divide by 2 to get my bittering addition IBU's. So in your case 1.065 becomes 65/2 = 32.5 IBU's from...

34/70 is a beast. After reading the Brulosophy fermentation temp experiments with this strain I was inspired to play around with it myself. I've now brewed 2 pilsners with this yeast fermented at 19C (66F) using 2 packets each. Both came out perfectly. I've actually got this exact recipe...

There is a lot of info to digest in regards to mash pH. I would start with Brau Kaiser, he's got an in-depth section on pH on his website which should cover all of your questions. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing

The yeast companies will tell you that 1 pack of liquid yeast is fine for 5 gallons of 1.048 beer. But really it depends on how old the yeast pack is. Check out a pitching rate calculator and enter your info, it will tell you what you need to do. http://mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html Mr. Malty...

Alpha acids will continue to isomerize until the wort reaches 79C (175F). Any hops added above that temperature will add bitterness. FO hops will add bitterness, and in my experience, whirlpool hops will still add a little bit of bitterness. However you also get a lot of hop flavor out of...

Well the OP did ask for the "most bang for your buck addition". If you are simply looking to make a hoppy beer I feel like you just need to add a lot of hops in various stages. For regular old west coast IPA's I typically add a bittering addition at 60 min, then I like to go with a 10 min, 5...

Another vote for dry hopping. Everyone always says late hops/dry hops for aroma, but don't let that confuse you, you'll taste all that "aroma" as well. The only problem being, creating a really hoppy beer without a lot of hops isn't really possible.

I usually do 30 psi for 24 hours, then reduce to serving pressure. I don't bother venting when reducing pressure, the beer will absorb the excess CO2 sitting in the head space anyway as it isn't fully carbed up in 24 hours. Usually another day, maybe 2 at serving pressure and its good to go...

Just wait longer. You can watch that line slowly drop. I've never done a mead, but with beer you can just rack it into a keg or bottles and it will continue to clear in those. Or you can wait until it is clear in the carboy and rack then. I'd imagine mead isn't much different from beer.

There may be a lot of reasons why yours isn't tasting good. How experienced are you at brewing in general? There are a couple of areas in brewing that you need to nail to crank out tasty beers; Sanitation Pitching Rate Fermentation Temps If you are doing all of those well then you can...

You can fill a keg like you described and take samples from the spigot but it won't be "closed". As the beer leaves the bucket something will fill the space the beer just left, unless you are pushing CO2 into the bucket, that something will be O2. Will it be enough O2 to damage the beer? I...

@Stillraining - you should really read the LoDo PDF to see how it works. It is all about limiting oxygen at all stages, racking would be a CO2 push into a liquid purged keg. LoDo was designed to replicate the steam purging of vessels used in big commercial breweries. The idea is to limit O2...

^ what Kev said. Good advice.

I don't have mine hooked up yet, but the longer your lines the less foaming you'll have. I've got 10' of line inside the kegerator, I'll start with another 10' to the gun. Should allow bottle filling at serving pressure. @booth74 More Beer carries all of the attachments.

I just picked up 2 of these, regular stainless steel versions. They work great, pour nice and feel nice and sturdy. Biggest selling feature for me had to be the interchangeable spouts. I've got a ball lock spout on the way to hook my Beergun up to, the stout and growler filler spouts are also...

Anything I've learned about brewing water has been on this forum, pay particular attention to what Martin Brungard and AJ Delange are saying. Martin wrote Brun Water and has already chimed in on this thread for you, AJ has a lot of helpful info as well. Those 2 have forgotten more about water...