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If you underpitch or don't oxygenate enough, yeast can absolutely burn out before they finish a beer. Repitching won't fix it. Aside from racking onto another yeast cake, you could also try racking to secondary. Often the simple act of racking to secondary can stir up the yeast enough to drop...

Adding and/or repitching yeast won't help. 1020 isn't bad, just a bit sweet. If you want to dry it out, rack in onto a yeast cake from another brew, should drop it down to 1010 in just a couple of days. Fresh yeast won't be able reproduce enough and definitely won't have the sterols necessary to...

:mug:

So, this is mostly me ranting about my own lack of foresight. I've had a couple weeks off, so I've been brewing a bit, and man, I really didn't plan ahead. If I brew ONE MORE BREW with CHOCOLATE MALT I'm going to jump off a building. I'm already tired of this flavor and I haven't even tasted...

Definitely not from sitting in the primary for 4 weeks. What was the yeast? That'd be my first guess. Second guess would be fermenting too warm.

Like Revvy said, lagers can take longer than 72 hours to show any signs...and they may not show any signs of life in the airlock at all. I brewed up a lager a couple weeks back using Saflager 34/70. That sucker seemed like it would never get to work. And then I forgot about it for a few days...

Three reasons here: 1)Saves $6-7 per brew. Part of the fun and skill of homebrewing to me is getting my price per brew as low as possible. Stretching a smack pack across 3-5 brews really helps over the course of year. 2)Laziness. So much easier to reuse a yeast cake than make a starter...

Homebrewing has been around a long time, and the hobby was always in worse of condition that it is now. Point is, people are pretty ingenius, and have worked out a lot of the best/cheapest ways to do things. I think ingenuity in the homebrewing community peaked at the creation of the...

Check and/or post on craigslist. A lot of people have sheds/unattached garages that they rent out for storage or whatever. You can maybe find someone that would let you rent it for brewing.

Is there a downside to just putting the chiller in at the beginning of the boil? <----I too got a chiller from the SWMBO for Christmas...and a corona mill. :) Good job SWMBO!!!

I think the double crush is the key there. When I've done no sparge, I didn't double crush, and always hung out in the low 70s.

Agree with the above: no sparge brewing. Loss of efficiency. BIAB brewers help make up for this by doing a double crush on their grain since the bag does a pretty good job of containing it. And, agree again, the other drawback is that for anything over a low gravity beer, you'll have trouble...

Yes, for strike water in your mash you want ~1.5 qts per pound. However, the sparge number you mention is kind of a "to get the most out of your grain" thing, and it's also highly variable based on your efficiency. The deal is, your first runnings (the strike water) will have a really high...

Great! Totally worth 74 seconds.

I don't think you need to go up to 1/2" Simply increasing from 20' to 50' of 3/8 will do the trick.

I slightly squeeze. Typically get 73% up to 78%. I do a sparge too though. 1.5 qts per pound for my mash, rest of the water in another pot for the sparge, 10 minutes in the sparge water.

I crash at just under 40F for 48 hours or so. Usually after two or three seeks of fermentation...basically whenever hydrometer reading is constant plus 3-5 days plus whenever I have time to move stuff around.

The bigger they are, the more likely they'll test. As they start to grow, their number of grow and it reaches a point where it's almost impossible not to test in a safety sensitive area, like manufacturing, just because the consequences of a drug related incident are so severe. Years ago, I...

Yep, that's a CGA 320 filter. NO ONE would fill that with any other gas than CO2. CGA fittings are a safety protocal and while I'm not sure if it would be illegal to manipulate the system, I know it would open them up to any number of liability lawsuits. Anyway, bottom line is that it's CO2.

Simply a beer "carbonated" with nitrogen gas instead of carbon dioxide. It generally produces a creamier texture with a much finer head (bubble wise). It can significantly alter the mouthfeel and aroma of the beer. As to the original topic, beers I've had on nitro include: Any number of...