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Agree with the others this does not look like a stall given the lb of lactose you added, and remember FG's reported by software are only estimates. Assuming you picked the style because you wanted a full bodied, sweet-ish stout sounds like you have exactly what you expected. I'd say it's a bad...

It ferments out pretty fast for me at 64-65, I'd call it vigorous even, and I've never had a problem with the krausen persisting. It's a little slower to flocculate than some strains but not painfully so. It can throw off some sulfur during active fermentation. I've usually got it in the keg...

Just to clarify that's not a mini mash despite what the directions say. There are no grains with diastatic power there so there is no conversion going on, it's just a straight extract with steeping grains recipe. You would never want to mash with that much water (i.e. 8 qts/lb according to...

Sounds like what Dragon mentioned above as a kit and kilo kit - i.e. they have you add a KG of sugar to cheaply boost up the alcohol rather than using the more expensive malt extract. In that case, and especially since you are looking for more body, replacing the kilo of sugar with a kilo of...

That would be a better sub for sugar than the dark DME if you're going to do it, but it's not always a good idea. In something like a Belgian tripel, or say a big DIPA, the sugar is a crucial part of the recipe. What is your recipe?

As mentioned above you can check out the threads or videos online for closed transfer. Basically though you fill through the beer out port, pushing the beer from the fermenter with CO2. I've seen some do a gravity transfer with a return line from the gas port back to the fermenter but I've...

No you do a closed transfer.

To completely purge a keg from oxygen you fill to the brim with starsan then push it out with CO2.

I do like the aroma boost that you get from keg hops. The drawback is you can't pre-purge the keg by filling with starsan. That means I only keg hop the occasional small batch IPA (i.e. 2.5 gal kegs that are gone in a couple wks). I have used nylon bags in the past but now I use stainless tea...

I juice the watermelon with sanitary utensils (spoon, strainer, potato masher) then just add it to the keg. Never had an infection probably over 20 batches this way.

Wow old thread, but I'm still making this same beer every summer. Now I just add the juice to the keg and let it naturally carb. It's really good with passion fruit too so I usually do half and half batches. Never tried the extract, I have heard before it's more like jolly ranchers and not like...

I would not have the heat on with the bag in there. Use a calculator to determine your strike temp, heat the water, then add the bag and grains and stir. Wrap it up in a blanket or put it in a preheated oven and leave it.

Ingredients say pure lactose so should be fine. Doesn't look all that cheap, you can get a 5 lb bag from morebeer for $15

High pH is a cause of astringency, and with a very pale grainbill you usually need to add some acid even with low alkalinity water and we don't know what you used. See below for a basic guideline that should get you in the ballpark starting with RO water. With fly sparging the number I see...

I'm betting that your mash pH was high with that grainbill and no acid so that could be the culprit. A mash is a mash, so the same principles apply to partial mash and all grain. You might have also oversparged. It's easier to do with a partial mash since your grainbill is smaller, you...

It's an American wheat, a common choice for fruiting as the yeast doesn't interfere with the flavors of the fruit. OP IME if the tartness is the fruit and not an infection it does mellow. I've got a passionfruit wheat in the keg that was pretty mouth puckering on initial tap, it's easier...

Seems odd you care more about the volume than the cell count but I guess to each his own. If you're worried about the jar being filled you can always top up with sterile water. I usually don't bother though and haven't had problems storing overbuilds of 650-900 ml in 1 liter jars.

The volume is going to vary depending on age of the yeast, aeration method, etc. What you want to tell it is the amount of cells you want to bank and then store the volume that it calculates for you.

So if I understand, you made a 1.5 L starter, poured off 47% (0.7 L) and thought you would somehow get 63% of the yeast in there? You don't need a spreadsheet, just add the amount you want to bank to your total you need for the batch and aim for that total amount of cells in the calculator...

That was my experience using the cooler and bag. A vorlauf may eliminate a few large particles. But OP if your beer is clear, who cares about the wort?