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Unless you want your beers to taste like vinegar I'd advise against it. Vinegar is acetic acid whereas as most sour beers use Lactobacillus which produces lactic acid. I've use acidulated malt at about 10% of my grain bill to get a little tartness in a gose I made but it's not the same as doing...

I would add them in the kettle after you remove your steeping grains. It sounds like First Wort Hopping to me.

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I normally see activity in my lagers 24-36 hours after pitching a 3L starter. 3 days does seem a little slow... I would pop open your Brew Bucket and see if there's any krausen. Most of the time there's no airlock activity it's a leaky seal in my fermentor.

I had that happen to me last brew. That's why I keep a few packs of dry yeast in case of an emergency. Get a new pack of yeast as soon as you can.

6 oz Southern Cross 3 oz Centennial 2 oz Mt Hood 520.345+6+3+2= 531.345 oz

You remove from heat when adding extract to prevent scorching on the bottom of the kettle so you don't need to do that will all grain. You still need to wait for the foam to dissipate before adding hops with all grain to prevent boil overs. This is the hot break. A protein rest is an entirely...

I would toss the really brown ones but the rest look fine. You still need to dry them if you intend to save them. There's still a good bit of moisture left in the cones even when they start to brown.

I'd be more concerned that it's brown... What was the recipe?

What do you mean dry wheat? Do you mean dry malt extract or all grain? Here's a BYO article on using wheat and doing all grain brewing: https://byo.com/stout/item/328-brewing-with-wheat https://byo.com/newbrew/all-grain Good luck!

Looks like fermenting cider to me! Yeast forms a krausen on the top when it's actively fermenting. I would say you don't have a good seal on your bucket or your airlock is cracked.

2 oz for 5 gallons should work fine

Go for it! I just wouldn't call it an alt anymore. Sounds like you'll have a pale ale. I'd dry hop with only the homegrown Cascade.

I also think Mt Hood. I grow both Mt Hood and Centennial and your cones look identical to my Mt Hood.

There are 2 chambers in the center of the slide where you'll load your sample. You'll load your sample in the top and bottom of the slide while the cover slip is over it. You won't be able to see the grid until you look under your microscope. Any normal microscope glass cover should work. I...

The bottle may crack from the heat but you really only need to pass it back and forth through the flame for a couple seconds. Try it on an empty bottle first.

No I haven't. I've used the WB-06, Wyeast 3068, and Wyeast 3638 for hefeweizens. 3068 is my favorite. I say give M20 a try or do a split batch.

Ferment on the cooler end of the temperature range and you'll be fine. Roast character is pretty strong.

Propane torch would be good. I wouldn't use a lighter. You want a nice blue flame.

I'd definitely use M20 for a Dunkelweizen. The M21 is a witbier yeast.