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I would remove some yeast from your slant and inoculate them into about 10-50ml of sterile wort, let that grow for a 48 hours then take a loop full of yeast and streak some new slants. As long as you keep everything sanitary I wouldn't worry about contamination. It's more important to make sure...

Depends what temp you would be fermenting. If the ale and lager temp ranges overlap at some point and you ferment at that temp you would be ok. If not I would pick one or the other. Honestly I would use either the ale or lager yeast and not both. No sense in complicating things.

It would make it taste awesome! Cascade goes great with Chinook and Citra.

What hops did you use? I've made a stout with Northern Brewer hops that had a slight mint aroma.

I would add a little more juice or sugar to start up fermentation again. The CO2 produced by the added sugars should blanket your cider and protect it from oxygen.

That seems a little high. You can try adding another pack of dry yeast and giving it another week to finish up.

Hop oils and bitterness are extracted more efficiently at a higher pH but a lower boil pH will give you a smoother/less harsh bitterness. Most sources recommend aiming for a boil pH between 5.0-5.2 to strike a balance between flavor and efficiency.

Have you used the aluminum pot for brewing before? I know that aluminum and acidic foods (like beer wort) don't mix. http://www.thekitchn.com/food-science-explaining-reacti-73723

That seems like a lot of crystal malt... what are you making?

The recipe looks good and think that an OG of 1.090 would be a more reasonable strength beer. 2 packages of US-05 for a 12L batch should be plenty of yeast to get the job done. As far as hop selection I would chose whatever has the highest AA and add them at the beginning of the boil. I would...

It sounds like you're using you pH meter correctly and it's more an issue with your water. I would try measuring the pH of distilled water or a finished beer and see what it reads. I don't use RO water so unfortunately I can't help you with that.

Yes, storage solution and calibrating solution (pH 4.0 and 7.0) is all you need.

It's supposed to stay on. It helps prevent trub from entering the siphon. If you keep it immersed in beer you won't introduce any air.

Sounds like you put it in the fridge while it was actively fermenting. Probably just CO2 coming out of solution. You should really wait for your starter to finish fermenting before cold crashing.

Welding supply places should have CO2 and N. Just searched "welding supply omaha" and found a few places.

1.070 was your final gravity or original? If your OG was 1.070 your FG should be around 1.014 or so.

Wow maybe it just fermented that fast! I think 3 weeks should be more than enough time. 4-5 weeks is a bit overkill. You could always take a gravity reading to make sure fermentation didn't stop prematurely.

Looks pretty good. The only thing I would consider changing is your addition of flaked oats. Oats add body and mouthfeel but with a beer that high gravity I don't think oats are necessary.

If it was a 5 gal/20L batch then yes, I think you underpitched for a 1.070 beer. However I don't think you need to add more yeast now. It should ferment out fine. It will just take a little longer. If you're not seeing bubbles anymore it's possible the seal in your airlock is broken. You can...

If you treat it right it should be able to handle 10%+. It sounds like you'll have plenty of yeast so I wouldn't worry.