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The yeast will be fine. Just make a starter before you use it again.

You'll get plenty of flavor and aroma from the flameout addition so I wouldn't worry about doing a 30min addition. After you cut off the burner cover the kettle and let them steep for 10-20 mins before chilling. When I brew pale ales I typically do a 60 min, 10 min, and flameout addition. I...

The only thing I'd change is to move the 30 minute Citra addition to later in the boil to preserve some of its flavor and aroma. Maybe throw it in at flameout with the Amarillo. Can't hurt to throw some Centennial in at flameout also if you have it!

I would just add cane sugar and bottle like normal. In my experience Belgian yeast strains can handle that ABV without any problems. It will take a bit longer to carb and condition though. I'd wait at least another 6 weeks after bottling.

Yeah, bottling too early has way more negative consequences. I normally bottle or keg after 3-4 weeks and haven't had any problems.

My go to is Wyeast 1272 but I also like 1332 on occasion.

I would stick with Magnum. FWH are supposed to give you a smoother/less harsh bitterness. I don't think you get much flavor from the process so I'd save your Citra, Cascade and Mosaic for later in the boil.

I think it's probably done but it can't hurt to wait a couple more days. More time in primary allows the yeast to clean up any off flavors and also gives the yeast more time to settle out so it doesn't end up in your final beer.

3 days should be good but if you're not in a rush it won't hurt to leave it a couple more days. I'll typically leave my lagers in the primary vessel, chill it to 2-4C and leave it for a week before transferring to a keg. That way I transfer less junk into the keg and have clearer beer.

Sounds reasonable. You may be able to raise the temperature sooner than 2 weeks. I typically raise the temperature once I see activity slow and the krausen begin to fall.

Looks good! IBUs will be a little low but it'll be an easy drinking lager!

But how much oxygen is absorbed? And is it really worth the extra effort? That's my point. I imagine most homebrewers are siphoning their beer and not doing closed transfers from the fermenter into a purged keg.

If you boil the water, let it sit in the kettle to cool overnight, then siphon into a keg the next day I don't see why that would be less effective than fermentation. Boiling will remove all the dissolved gases and yes transferring will re-introduce some oxygen but that's no different than...

Boil it.

Not likely at all. DMS is really only a concern when using large amounts of very pale malt like pilsner. You only used 8 oz of 2 row so you'll be fine.

Yeah I'm not sure what went wrong. Maybe next time you can brew an all grain kit. That way you can get rid of LME as a variable and find out if it's something else in your brewing process.

Yeah I would probably add water, flavoring and vodka in a keg and force carb it... I don't entirely understand why hard seltzer is "brewed" instead of mixed.

I hope it works! If not, starting over with tap water and a better yeast nutrient should give you much better results.

So it's a closed system? If so it's ok to use again for another batch of beer.

That makes sense to me... What did you estimate you OG to be? Is the 1.038 way off from what you expected?