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You could make kveik your house yeast and not worry about temp control. Actually, you'd still want to be able to run it cool for clean beers. Some temp control is a bonus.

Some [emoji16] I've pitched as little as a few flakes. I have also moved to much smaller volume of trub to dry; struggled to get that large amount dry.

It will definitely be a Belgian ipa. T-58 is my go to for saison, but don't use it if you don't want those flavors.

I'm in a similar situation - don't want to educate myself but want to tweak. I'd plug those values into a free spreadsheet (Bru'n water is what I use) and mess around. I've been happy with small adjustments I've made.

I hadn't considered that...maybe 1/2 wheat DME 1/2 light DME?

As I've said earlier in the thread, I'd eliminate the sugar and that would probably give you the OG you're looking for.

Reptile tank heater FTW. $15 on eBay + temp control.

Porter = wimpy stout

Kit instructions often tell you to move your beer to another vessel for secondary fermentation. Current consensus is that this is unnecessary and even detrimental to quality. Keep it simple.

Agreed - it's not as good as a full boil all grain NEIPA, but for 10min of work, it gets damn close.

Same for me - throw it all together and let it ferment. No heating or chilling necessary.

Do it once, the right way. Control panel + 240v + 5500kW. It does not have to be complicated or necessarily that expensive, but you will be laughing at the end of your 4 hour brew day.

Have a version of this fermenting now - same grain bill, kveik (at 95 degrees!), mandarina bavarina, sorachi ace, lemondrop. Because that's what I had.

I think there's a clear lesson here. Never ever put pumpkin in a beer. [emoji16]

2x4.

It's good to have a little extra head room in the pot. A 5 gallon batch in a 16 gallon pot might not work so well, if you have immersion chiller.

Agreed with the pilsner. I would argue it's essential if you want to make a Belgian beer that tastes truly Belgian.

Also alcohol content will help. Above 8% might even be better after a year. Doubt your Irish red is there, though.

I'd probably drill a hole in the hex wrench piece with a small bit and then use an appropriately sized extractor. Getting the hole and extractor size to match up is a little finicky - I've had mixed success. Either way, I think you're looking at destructive removal.

Ignorant about BIAB as I mash in a cooler, but I assumed it was no sparge by default. Is there really a way to sparge with a bag?