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This is likely your main problem. I have never used this yeast (I did buy a pack once, but never could bring myself to use it), but reviews are generally not favorable. I suggest you try one of the liquid yeast varieties, WY3068 for WLP300. Also, I've found that shooting for a higher FG, say...

Can't say for sure since I don't know the OG of the brew, but my guess is that it should be plenty of yeast. Even pitching 1/3 of the jar would most likely be more than enough.

Sounds like the slurry was just recently harvested, correct? If so, you can pitch it just as it is into your next batch. Or you can take a portion of it (say, around 1/2 cup or ~100 ml) and make a starter. You can assume there are about 1-1.5 billion cells per ml of slurry in that jar, so 100 ml...

This ^^^^^ Increase mash temp to increase body and increase base malt to add ABV and to compensate for the loss of ABV that will result from higher mash temp (due to a higher FG).

I get this every now and then. I attribute it to carbonic acid from the CO2. Burst carbing seems to accentuate it. It usually fades after a short time.

SS Brewtech Brew Bucket. Easy to fill, easy to clean, no glass or plastic, fits in my chest freezer ferm chamber. Mine is set up for CO2 pressure transfers and CO2 back-purge during cold crashing.

Yes

Leave it. It'll be fine for quite some time.

No need to sanitize the extract, just sanitize whatever you use to measure it out and add to the beer. Even that is likely not necessary since the extract itself probably contains alcohol and therefore would be self-sanitizing, but to keep within the spirit of reasonable precautions and such, it...

A bench vise works well to hold it. I didn't really care for the two piece design and ended up replacing mine with a 3-piece model, which is much easier to deal with.

Assuming a 5-6 gallon batch... Toss 8 oz toasted coconut in the boil with 5-10 min remaining Toss another 8 oz into primary 5-7 days before kegging Toss another 8 oz into the keg and leave it there I'd use sanitized hop sacks for the ferm and keg additions and put some sort of weight in them...

Glad to hear it worked out.

This may be of use to you... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=117117 And no, you don't need a secondary. Boil the DME, wort from the steeped grains (unless you omit the grains), along with any hops you may use, cool it, and add to apple juice in your primary along with an ale or...

Most definitely overcarbed.

I'd just go with it as-is and see how it turns out. Maybe mash a little longer in case the pH does end up on the low side to ensure full conversion, as low pH can somewhat inhibit conversion. Is this BIAB, or is a it traditional MLT setup? If MLT, maybe go with the thinnest mash you can...

My lager process is typically as follows... 1) Primary fermentation 5-7 days @ 52°F 2) D-rest 3-5 days @ 65°F ambient (set ambient temp in ferm chamber to 65° and allow beer temp to slowly rise on its own) 3) Gravity reading at end of D-rest; if at expected FG, continue to step 4 4) Cold crash...

Sure, it's your beer, do what you want. Just use something clean like a Kolsch strain or even one of the Chico varieties would be okay. With that said, since you have temp control, why not just use a lager strain? There's no law that says you have to lager for x amount of weeks before you...

I build up slightly larger than needed starters and save off a little bit of slurry from each one to use for a future starter. The yeast that went sour had been thru at least half a dozen (probably more) of these cycles and must have picked up a bit of lacto somewhere along the line. The other...

This is a possibility. A ball bearing covering the small orifice in the brass piece, held in place by the spring.

No, don't taste the slurry. I'm talking about the decanted starter "beer." You'll usually know when something isn't quite right. I had one once that was a bit more sour than I was used to tasting, decided to pitch it anyway and ended up with a sour brew that I had to dump. Another time I had a...