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I've found out that the soft crash temperature I'd need to target mainly depends on the yeast strain, not just the temperature drop. It also sounds like I would need to straight up cold crash in the 30s to "soft crash" with lager yeast. Kind of defeats the purpose since I would be dry hopping at...

I have a few questions about soft crashing to remove yeast: 1. Is it the temperature drop that matters for a soft crash (e.g. fermenting at 68 and soft crashing to 58 = 10 degree drop) or the specific temperature for a given yeast? 2. Can lager yeasts be soft crashed if fermented in the 60s or...

That sounds pretty proper to me. I always aim for 20 IBUs too. Since I usually do a 50/50 whirlpool/dry hop, I might try reducing the whirlpool addition to see what's what.

This reminds me of an article from Janish (Zero Hot-Side Hopped NEIPA | HPLC Testing for Sensory Bitterness - Scott Janish) where he dry hopped with 10 ounces and omitted hot-side hops altogether. The aroma and taste was very subdued and he figured that hot-side hops must be necessary for...

It's mainly meant for dry hopping, so IPAs (especially NEIPAs) are the main style it pertains to. The idea of doing a "soft crash" is that the upper 50s is cold enough to drop yeast in suspension, but also warm enough to dry hop. It also mitigates hop creep and many consider dry hopping without...

I'm mainly talking about soft crashing instead of cold crashing. As far as cold crashing goes, I imagine that the lower the temperature, the less time is needed (and vice versa).

I have a few questions about soft crashing to remove yeast: 1. I know that soft crashing ale yeast in the upper 50s removes most of the yeast, but ale yeast can also be fermented at 60 degrees or lower. How would you soft crash an ale yeast fermented at 60 degrees? 2. Can lager yeasts be soft...

That dry hopper is very cool. I've never seen one before. Good suggestion! Thanks. I already saw sibelman's post. I was just saying that I've heard of those two techniques before and since they both involve leaving hops at fermentation temperature, I wondered if that would be detrimental to the...

I've heard about pre-loading a keg with dry hops or suspending a dry hop bag with magnets in the fermenter. Wonder if it would be detrimental to the hops to leave them sitting for that long temperature-wise?

That's awesome. I'd say NEIPAs are already a bit excessive when it comes to hop amounts, so I'd much rather waste some CO2 than risk ruining an expensive batch of beer. Here's to hoping that doing a continuous 4 psi purge while dry hopping in the kegmentor, purging 10 more times with 10 psi...

How long do your NEIPAs last? I usually limit myself to one beer a day, so mine will need to last a couple months.

I guess my plan for dry hopping will be to continuously purge the kegmenter with 4 psi through the gas post, open the lid, quickly drop in the hops and close the lid, then purge 3 more times with 8 psi. Time will tell if that's good enough to minimize oxidation.

You're just the guy I was hoping for! So the velocity has to be greater than 50 ft/min while adding the dry hops. Since you know way more about this than the average person, how would YOU personally carry out the process of purging with CO2 while dry hopping, then purging after sealing?

I ferment and dry hop in a corny keg with a floating dip tube. I'm planning to make a beer with 24 oz of hops (12 oz hop stand and 12 oz dry hop), so I REALLY don't want to mess it up with oxidation. My plan is to continuously purge the headspace with CO2 while adding the dry hops, then do more...

Yes, I have a floating dip tube and I'm going to do as you suggested. I'll probably purge a few more times for good measure.

If dry hopping after fermentation in a kegmenter (0.5 gallons of headspace), how much purging is recommended after adding the dry hop? I know that 16 purges of 30 psi eliminates all oxygen, but is that what this thread recommends/practices? Thanks in advance!

Style guidelines don't really matter to me. All I care about is the taste.

Thanks for the update. Any specific reason you prefer ale yeast over lager yeast in pale ales (flavor, etc.)?

For anyone who has personal experience with trying out different mash pH levels for highly hopped IPAs (12+ ounces of hops), what is your favorite mash pH level and why? To avoid confusion, I'm speaking about mash pH measured at room temperature. What is considered the most accurate water...

How would you describe the characterisitics of each of the yeast you mentioned when fermented warm? Some cleaner than others? Is there an optimal temperature in the 60s you'd recommend?