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I was thinking for 5 gal, 1 oz chinook at 60, 1/2 oz each at 15,5, flame out???

So how much and when?

If one were to leave the recipe book behind just for fun, would mixing hops that have different profiles, like say Cascade with Chinook give and interesting flavor combo, or make a muddy, bitter mess?

couldn't I take almost any recipe and double the hops used at the start of the boil and make it a 30 min boil? Assuming all other hops are to be added in the last 30 min., which is usual, just double the bittering hops at the beginning of the boil, 30 min, and make it 30 not 60, no?

I'm looking for a home brew supply store near or in Midlothian. Any ideas?

I'm just confused. Sorry. At 5 min is it east kent or golding, is it an either or? I really want to try it.

I brewed a batch, it took 48 hours to start bubbling, then stopped in less than 48 hours. I hate to open it to take a reading for fear of infection, a problem I've had a LOT. So any way I can tell its really stuck? I was thinking of just sprinkling in a new pack of dry yeast in the hole for the...

I'm using a hop bag for the bittering hops. How does that matter?

I just thought I'd share an update. My last two batches, a porter and very hoppy pale ale, turned out fine. I do'nt know why; I may have inadvertantly sanatized correctly, it could be because I finally got the air out of my syphone line using a hose clamp, or maybe because I stopped covering the...

This is 15 min because its extract and the malt extract need only boil for 15 min to get it bacteria free. It tastes good because the hop quantity is so big you don't need to utilize it completely. Given that most recepies call for bittering hops at 60 min and all other hops, no matter what the...

I can only get ingredients by the .5 lb. and didn't want to waste anything , so for grains used .5 lbs crystal 50-60 and .5 light roasted barley. Its almost like a light stout if there can be such a thing.So far it is well revieved.

Just to recap. I brew several batches with the same off / bitter/ astringent after taste. The only batch that was a great pale ale, which went to tasting similar to the others after 10 days in the bottle. Then I brewed a batch of an IPA that was good. Among the many suggestions was to...

would it finish in just 2 to 3 days? The bubbling was strong, but i've see straonger with other yeasts.

I'm so friggin scared of bacteria I haven't opened it up so havent' tested it, I've had real issues with a sour after taste which maybe bacteria related.

I think I have stuck fermentation also. I'm using Safale 04 for the first time. I pitched at about 75 degrees, it cooled down to 50s before back up to about 68 to 72. It took two days to start bubbling, now after only two days of bubbeling it seems to have stopped. Is there a problem, and if...

suggestions on a dry yeast?

I use an auto siphon which is lke a two foot long hard plastic tube in a sleve. The hard plastic tube has a curve at the end. At the curve I attach tubing. Its at this joint where air comes in. I have it jammed on aboiut 3 inches worth, but still a small stream of air bubbles is coming in. But...

AIR in the siphon line at bottling. How would this effecet outcome/ taste? How to eliminate it?

I just bottled another batch, really, really tried to clean and Sanatize everything. It tasted pterry good at bottling, flat and warm, but good. BUT I did notice a lot of air in my siphon line. IF this is the problem, what will it taste like? I used an auto-siphon so am not sure how to...

I brew with the lid on as much as possible to retain heat. Never thought of DMS. But from what I read the off taste is not DMS. How great would that be if this is the issue? It's a sour / bitter , not corn or cabbage taste.