Search results

I had messaged him about the gluco, here's what he said:

If you've got RO water with a TDS of 3, the pH isn't relevant for mash pH estimation.

On my top freezer unit I took an angle grinder and cut out the divider between the freezer and fridge. Gives me more room to work with inside, and it's all 1 temp now.

0.2 isn't that far off. The software runs on generic assumptions about the malt and how it will act in the mash; it is pretty amazing that it works as well as it does. Take note of the grains used and the readings and adjust accordingly for next time.

Thanks for reporting back! Were they labeled in any way to indicate the repackaging? If not, and they were repackaged for commercial use (and not, say, a homebrew club member who was sharing hops) then that seems like a questionable practice on the part of the repackager.

Distilled water is going to be far more susceptible to pH change from acids and bases than wort because there is nothing in pure water to buffer. If the distilled water isn't changing then that's not it.

Be sure to make it 8% ABV and add gluco so that you're not wasting calories on carbs to get your alcohol. I miss him too.

It's possible that your lots of grain contribute differently to the mash pH than the defaults in the program for them.

Try all pilsner malt, maybe 1.030-1.035 OG depending on the desired ABV, 10-15IBU from noble hops at 60 minutes, and use glucoamylase in the fermentor to chew up the carbs, FG should be around 1.000. Lager yeast, fermented cold, with a month or so of lagering time before serving.

But why did you open it to transfer? Your bottom drain is raised off the bottom to avoid trub, you could put a liquid QD on there and do a closed transfer to your serving keg.

When are you measuring your mash pH?

(inkbird wireless meat thermometer) Very cool!

I'm in!

Awesome contest, I'm in!

There are no safe tested ways of pressure canning in half gallon jars. https://blogs.extension.iastate.edu/answerline/2019/07/18/canning-in-half-gallon-containers/

That's a valid technique that many people use. I build a larger starter than I need, pour off a pint when it is done, and keep it in the fridge for future use. Why would you need a couple dry yeast packs? One pack in a starter should be plenty - increase the starter size if you need more.

This would be the ideal way. In practice, when I vent to fill I don't get much foam. A bit comes out the PRV when it is full, but by then the keg is already very full so it's not a big deal. My beer still has as much head as I desire when pouring, so I'm not losing enough "foam once" proteins...

When I transfer carbonated beer from my Kegmenter to serving kegs, I vent each a little, then top up to the same pressure and leave the gas on the Kegmenter. Then hook up the transfer line, bleed the air out, and attach to the serving keg. Transfer is started by venting the serving keg PRV a...

A few things you can explore: Look at your grain crush. With BIAB, you can go finer without clogging things up. This will help the efficiency. You can also try a longer mash. For a BIAB mash, you want your bag as big as your pot. The grains should be in the entire volume of water without...

No need to apologize! Getting to a decent boil is good to try to do, but it doesn't have to be a violent boil. You're right, if you had a better boil you probably would have boiled off more wort and been closer to your predicted gravity. You've got the idea for efficiency. There's a good...