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No, I usually run them as open as they will go. The flow restriction thing in them provides enough resistance.

Propane is simple, a tank and a burner is all that's needed. A lot more to think about with electric.

Yet another vote for Wilserbrewer bag. Over 35 brews with mine still going strong.

I have Perlick flow controls and use 6 ft lines, pours fine. I thought about going shorter but 6' was what I started with, and went with the if it's not broke don't fix it attitude.

Same here. Atlantic Brew Supply has some hard to find grains.

It might work, but looks like junk. Get an Inkbird 308 and be done with it.

Get this one, has mesh over the holes in the lid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W555VSQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And filling any growler I want with my own.

I take my first and only hydrometer reading as I am bottling or kegging.

I never understood all the trouble and processes that people go thru to try to get their beer clear or why they are needed to achieve clarity. Only thing I ever do is use Whirlfloc. Never cold crashed and never used gelatin. Almost all my brews come out like a commercial brew. I guess I'm...

But the second time you took that company's growler to be filled would be no different than taking any other one.

Going to 10 gal requires other considerations. I wouldn't base it solely on your heating element.

All a fridge thermostat does is control the temp. If you crank it up to max, it will just run longer, not be colder quicker, or have more "power." At fermentation temps, doesn't really matter where the fridge thermostat is set, the inkbird will do the on/off. Ice is a sign that you are...

If you are going to do 5 gal BIAB, a 10 gallon is sufficient for all but really big brews. With BIAB, the less head space, the better your mash temp is going to hold. Even with a huge grain bill, there are ways to get it done with a 10 gal. Biggest I'd go would be 15. If you are going to do...

I've never heard of this, sounds like just a way to sell a growler.

You compressor delay should be set to 10 min. Don't set your hd and cd at 1 degree, they will just fight each other. During active fermentation, I set the cooling diff to 1 and the heating diff to 10, because I don't need any heat. Once active fermentation is finished and I want to raise...

I love my Spike kettle. 10 gal would work for you.

Still working on the finishing touches. Turned some wooden tap handles. And some more for variety.

I have flair fittings on everything. Makes it easier to take the line off to clean. Got these on my shanks. https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-shank-nipple-14-flare-thread.html

Exactly my method.