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Thanks for the info. That's some good attenuation. We had a cold snap here (0 degrees for 2 days). My yeast dropped out at the end before I had a chance to warm it up.

I harvested from 2 hearted ale. My step ups were. 250ml-1.020 500ml-1.030 1L-1.037 2.5L-1.040(only need a 2L starter, but made an extra 1/2L to save for another brew day.) Harvested from 1 bottle very fresh though. Had plenty off yeast jumping from 1L to a 2.5L step up. Yeast does need room to...

Can I ask if you used harvested bells yeast or some other yeast? And what was your og and FG. I'm trying to figure the attenuation of bells yeast. Thanks.

Congrats. Those are some nice scores. Most ppl on this site say the brewer gets the scores not the recipe. So props to you.

Anyone have this finish a little high say around 1.015. I brewed this once with us05 got it down to 1.012. The second attempt was with harvested bells yeast. Started with a little higher og 1.067. Stopped at 1.015. Still got 78% attenuation. Not sure what attenuation bells yeast gets. Warmed it...

Prices aren't bad , but were spoiled from the group buys.

I know they sell sacks of dme. Never seen sacks of grain though. I remember one employ tell me they can order you certain things if you let them know ahead of time. Prices are fair. 10lbs of 2 row is $13.99. Marris otter was $15.99.

Lol. I use to crush it myself at consumers , before I bought a crusher. That's why I was asking. As long as your not doing the work who cares what they use. Besides the wait I guess.

Hand cranked??? What if you want 15lbs of grain crushed. The orchard park consumers has a drill on theirs. I'd tell them to step up their game.

Cool thanks for all the info. Didn't think of using the amber balanced profile. Looks like a good fit for this beer

anybody see these kind of stains before? i can see it on my secondaries because i've aged a RIS and barley wine for 3-6 months. but on the primaries im surprised. i'm about to go glass or the northern brewer bubbler. at least it would be able to clean it. not happy with better bottles

wondering what water profile to use for a dead guy clone. was thinking Munich boiled but it seems very low in in sulfates and chloride. i haven't had this beer in a while so i'm not to sure what to shoot for more sulfates or chloride heavy.

Your going to lose more than a 1 gal from grain absorption. I lost 2.5 gals. I guess it could depend on your crush and type of cooler you use. I also bumped up my starting boil volume since I boil off 1.75 gals in an hour. You could also lower your water to 1.3 qts pp if you wanted to give you...

Thanks for the info. Your making me wonder if I should not use my harvested yeast. I tasted the wort from the starter and it didn't taste bad. I've got a nice amount of yeast built up. I stepped it up from one bottle 3x. What happened with your batch when you said it didn't come around.

I'm brewing it up tommorow. I'll definitely post back results.

I harvested some two hearted yeast also that smelled very phenol-y. So I toss the yeast cause it was brown and from an old bottle. I reharvested again from a bottle that was a few weeks old and it still smells phenol-y. This ones nice and white and creamy. So I'm going to pitch it and see what...

Most arrogant bastard clones I've seen are 90% 2 row, 10% Special B / or crystal 150. You might want to try that route. I have an arrogant bastard clone fermenting right now. I modified the recipe a little. 13.75lbs 2 row .70lbs special B .70lbs crystal 120 .12lbs chocolate malt ( for color) .

Is the cara pils/dextrine nessesary in this recipe ? I know it adds a little extra body. I brewed this recipe once with it. Was going to brew it a second time without it. See what the change is.

I've added a picture so you can see what I'm talking about.

I did scrub the outside. It's a brown color like a ring around the center. I've soaked these in a very strong solution and scrubbed them. If it didn't come off by now I'm theming it won't come off in the beer either. I guess I'll have to try it and see.