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So, I got a hand-me-down Co2 regulator. I replaced the Low Pressure gauge and High Pressure gauge. On the regulator, I don't see an external pressure relief valve (PRV), so it is safe to assume that there is one internally to the regulator? I know the tank has a PRV in the valve, and if...

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A couple times I mashed one day then boiled/pitched the next without any issues. I kept it at room temp. I probably wont do this anymore, since I stepped up to 10G batches. There was one time I tried to go with another day in between, and on the second day the wort already started...

I guess it all depends on how you are sparging. As you're sparging the first and last running are going to have different gravity. Really I don't think you are saving much time doing 1 10g batch vs 2 5g batches. I'm assuming that you are going to boil 2 batches but mash one. If you have a...

I do 3-3.5g BIAB but usually beers I'm going to bottle (uncommon beers for me). Or if I'm testing my own recipe. I can then ferment in a food grade 5g bucket without tying up my larger fermenters.

As I thought about this, you would also need to take into effect the weight of the co2 that is replacing the beer.

Im not sure if that is your cooler and design or someone else's. But if that was my cooler I would look into a bazooka screen. Since the bottom is pitched to the drain, I would assume that is where most of the liquid would drain too. However if that is all yours, you can really cut grooves...

Wouldn't it be easier to measure based on weight? I guess it depends on what you are dispensing from. But a keg on a scale seems cheaper and easier, once you calculate the weight to oz.

Dumb question but you originally have the water higher than your mash temp? I've done BIAB on elec stove, once I got the strike temp, and add grain it gets it to mash temp. There are calculators on the internet, I have BIABcalc on my phone to help get close to temp. After mash temp I move...

1. Make sure the pot you use fits correctly on the burner. 2. Make sure the burner can support the weight of the pot plus wort. The description didn't say the supported weight, but maybe google search it or contact the mfg. As for temp control. What about steeping/mashing on your stove, then...

I wouldn't use gallon jugs but rather 2 or 3 liter bottles. If you drop one, or your bag mishandled, the odds of the cap flying off is less. Your bag will prob be on the bottom, so you will have other bags stacked and thrown on top along with who knows what else done to it. Also if some wild...

Following the link none of those bottles I'd recommend. I don't know if any of them would handle pressure. Go with tried and true bottles: 22oz or EZ cap (Grolsch type). Those are all different. Or possibly create a cool label to set it apart.

Sure, you could either calculate how much priming sugar for lets say 1G of beer (simple math) vs 5G. I would rack 1G to bottling bucket, then the rest to the keg. Or you could transfer all to a keg, carb it, then fill bottles. You can use a counter-pressure filler, which is a DIY on here, or...

You could boil it for another 20 minutes if you want to. Your SG might be a little low, but with only 20 minutes left it might not be too bad.

Where in WI are you? What is the overall width, I'm interested.

Oh yeah...guess I should have actually read it :)

Someone posted a possible extract here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f62/bee-cave-brewery-koelsch-33548/index5.html I stopped at page 5, to see if someone else had recommendations. I tried converting using Beersmith 2, however it kept recommending Wheat Extract, and that doesn't sound...

Kolsch. Bee cave recipe on here is great. The wife loved it, she pretty much a light macro beer drinker. Had it on tap at my daughter's 1st birthday, and it was gone. Mostly everyone was BMC drinkers.

Interested in crusher, pm coming.