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I am also doing BIAB, full volume single infusion. I just brewed 2 batches at 155F which i will keg in a week, and i hope it will solve the problem of my beer being a little thin, before that i was just mashing at 149F and that was it.

Guys, i am experimenting with my mash temps, i would like to know your impressions on how to get body out of the mash. What is the actual difference between mashing for 60 minutes at around 155 without a mash out, over mashing at 149 for 60 minutes and then mashing out for 10 minutes at 170...

Guys, i am going to brew this on the weekend, but i brew 1 gallon batches and i am not too sure if i got beersmith configured correctly to scale to 1 gallon. Does anyone have this already scaled so i can compare to what i got? Thanks

Yep agree, not too early at all if fermentation is over. I actually keg all my IPAs around day 10 to 14, fermentation is usually finished by day 6.

Thanks, i do need acidulated malt for my ph, using 100% distilled water and brun water, target mash ph is 5.3. Just curious, why do you think i still need the 60 min addition? If beersmith says i will still get 65 ibu out of this hops?

Guys, what do you think of this IPA recipe? My goal is to have a very drinkable and aromatic IPA, it will be my first attempt of using Wheat, also first time with late addition hops for bittering. Its a 90 minute boil, but the first hop addition is only at the final 15 min :tank: Thanks for...

I BIAB, ok i will try raising the mash temp next time, maybe with higher temps i can even reduce the crystal amounts

LOL, what?!?!?!?!

Hey guys, i need some help correcting the body of a Sculpin clone i am attempting. For the mash i have: 2row 83% Crystal l20 15% Carapils 2% And still my body is very light, i am missing the caramel color, smell and taste i find in Sculpin. i am mashing at 65c for 60 min with no mash out...

Some very useful info in this for me, thanks guys!

Ok, so looks like it is really up to personal taste if you will leave your IPA in the fermenter for more time than actually needed to get the fermentation completed, right? Leaving it for less time will contribute to more hop character and freshness because you will drink it earlier, while...

Maybe this decision would also depend on the beer style? I feel like some styles would not be harmed by 4 weeks, and maybe an IPA would...

Thanks for the input, i may try it. So Yooper, you would not think that even thou your IPA tastes good(as mine also do), it would taste even better if we just let it sit in the fermenter for a little longer? You think we would lose some of the hop character? Not really, i take the first...

Yep, that is Conan

Hey guys, i need some help figuring out my fermentation schedule for my IPAs. We all know that the fermentation is over when you get 3 consecutive steady hydrometer readings, but for my brews it always happen around day 5 to 7 tops, i usually use California Yeast or San Diego superyeast...

I am not sure which oats specifically, the label only say oats :) Thanks for this, i was thinking something similar.

Hey guys, I am trying to brew something similar to a great IPA i found in Quebec, its the LTM SS IPA. I have found no clones at all for this one, but the label states the following ingredients: Grains Pale (2 row i guess), Oat, Carawheat Hops Simcoe, Citra, Chinook, Centennial...

Thanks for the info guys. I actually brewed an IPA last week which i just tasted, and even before the dryhop the smell is already amazing! As fruity as it gets, and the way i accomplished that was a MASSIVE addition at flameout with a 20 minutes stand. The hops used were Amarillo + Citra +...

Thanks for the replies guys, i will give this a try. Also, do you guys believe the grain bill have any influence in this?

Hey guys, so i am experimenting with a recipe which is working well for me, its a Bells Two Hearted IPA, mainly a Maris Otter Centennial single hop, dry hopped with Centennial and Cascade. I love the taste but i am not too happy with the aroma, i want to change the hops i use in the dry hop...