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Your heat exchanger probably has all male threads coming out of the body so you'd be looking at getting Type A fittings for that end. If you were buying camlocks for your valve end you'd want Type F fittings because those will screw into your ball valves. Easiest one for a hose end that will fit...

I think in the latest copy of BYO magazine there's a story in the back about a guy brewing outside and a small herd of deer are watching him. It includes a picture of a small buck eating from his pile of grain after he finished.

I think people usually use the Female ends (Type B,C,D) for their hoses, and the male (Type A,F) for their pumps, valves, ect.

New Belgium Hoptober Golden Ale

I used 1/2", but I think it was what was at the local Ace like JRems said. It works just fine for me.

+1 I was just thinking about this last night. I let one roll off the counter a couple months ago after introducing two new people to homebrewing. I never did get to see what my OG was. #360

I will usually put it in the starter. I use the LHBS version of BrewVint, I've been putting in 1/4 tsp into each starter. I always have strong starters and quick starting primary ferments. I wash my yeast so I started using this nutrient to help them wake up.

Nice. Too bad they leave out mash temp and weight. Guess its time to start experimenting! My next planned brew is a Jubel Ale clone that was posted on here a while back. Looks like the recipe follows this information.

Wash it: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/ Or some people will just pitch another batch of wort right onto the yeast cake. I've washed two types so far. Worked great.

That sounds like you've got it.

Yikes you're right. All this time I thought mine had a check valve. I guess that wouldn't make sense now though. Perhaps mine is on the tank side of the regulator and not the hose barb side. I'll have to go home and take a look.

To answer your first question directly whatever your gauge says is the pressure in the keg. If you have the regulator set to what would amount to 12 PSI, but the gauge still says 30 PSI, then the keg is sitting at 30 PSI. in order to drop it down to 12 you'd just pull the relief valve on top of...

If you turn off your tank while leaving the valve open the gauge should read what pressure the keg is at. You can test by letting some gas out the relief valve until the needle starts to fall.

Welcome Jeff.

Yeah, or one of the Local Home Brew Shops. They probably know where to find it as well. I know the Cellar Homebrew north of Greenwood in Seattle rents cider presses. Might be a good place to start.

Welcome!

http://bonneylake-sumner.patch.com/articles/apple-cider-squeeze-coming-to-university-place There's this in Sumner if you're feeling like picking and pressing yourself. You could drive I-90 east over the pass, I think before Cle-Elum there's a big white barn on the North side of the highway...

Might as well not risk it and just use the blow off. Better safe than sorry.

Just watch for air bubbles near the edge of the tape. They may give a access point for water into the thermometer.

Try putting clear packing tape over your fermometer strips. That may make them a little more "water proof". I usually place my strips in the middle of the carboy / bucket, or wherever the middle of the beer would be.