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I was wondering if anyone has dialed back the Bru'n Water Pale Ale profile for their beers. I have had some issues with boiling off too much water and concentrating ions too much, but I think I also want a little less sulfate in my pale ales. How does this water profile look for a more balanced...

My worry is that when you step up ID size, there will be a loss of pressure that can't be regained, even by stepping down ID size again.

Ironically enough, I am a mechanical engineer.... Skipping my fluids class certainly didn't help my grasp of flow fundamentals.

I am converting my old gravity-fed CFC to be used with a pump and a whirlpool arm. I plan on using the SpinCycle whirlpool arm, which requires a 1/2" NPT male connection. I plan on just using camlock fittings, and I will use 1/2" ID silicon tubing on the input end of my chiller, but I have...

Unfortunately, BeerSmith lost its mind and deleted my recipe with all of my notes...... I will probably start by mashing for 75 minutes - I haven't done an iodine test before, I just go with visual observation. I had a hard time discerning with this particular brew whether the haze present in...

I am looking to clone the grain bill of this beer - I am not exactly looking to nail the hop usage, although it is quite good. The beer is a pale ale at only 5.5%, and I would say it falls around 2SRM. It is very smooth, with little perceivable bitterness. I am thinking its got some 2-Row or...

Follow up: I recently brewed a 2.5 gal Session IPA and had a similar problem. I used Chinook and Centennial as bittering hops, and I used RO water while following Bru'n Dog's Pale Ale water profile to a 'T'. I DID adjust my single step batch sparge with phosphoric acid - so I don't think tannin...

I have only had an uncarbonated room temp sample, but I did not notice it being overly sweet. I was trying to give the beer some more malt character and make it less dry than some of the session IPAs I have had - I guess I accomplished that. I will have to wait a week for it carb up and try it then.

I ended up with a pretty high FG on the 2.5 gallon Session IPA I just brewed. 5oz Carapils 6oz Honey Malt 8oz Quaker Oats 1lb Munich 3lb Maris Otter Mash~156deg OG 1.048 FG ~1.019 Should I just mash lower, like at 152? How can I account for this when formulating the recipe? BeerSmith told me my...

I am planning on slowly upgrading my brewing rig. The next step is to add a pump so I can more easily chill my beer and whirlpool - for both leaving trub behind and more easily adding whirlpool hops. If I remember correctly, my CFC copper tubing is 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID: I am assuming that it is...

To all my fellow FastFermenters: I am using the 3 gallon conical for the first time. I attached a larger mason jar to the unit, and after a week of fermentation, I've got an 8oz mason jar full of trub, as well as an additional 1L of trub in the fermenter. I am trying to figure out the best way...

Yeah, I was shooting for 2.75 gallons, but missed low because of the fact that the amount of grain was calculated according to 89% efficiency. My batch efficiency this round was 65%...I know that you will always lose some volume to trub.

I just brewed my first 2.5 gallon batch to put into my FastFerment 3 gallon conical. I'm kind of disappointed, because I brewed a Session IPA and used a hop "basket" (https://www.homebrewing.org/400-Micron-Stainless-Hop-Filter--4-x-10-_p_7114.html), and still ended up with a bunch of trub in my...

Session IPA 2.5lbs Maris Otter (47.6%) 0.75lbs Munich (14.3%) 10oz Carapils (11.9%) 8oz Honey Malt (9.5%) 8oz Flaked Oats (9.5%) 6oz Vienna (7.1%) 0.3oz Chinook (11.0%) - FWH 0.3oz Centennial (11.1%)- FWH 0.25oz Chinook - 10min 0.25oz Centennial - 10min 0.5oz Chinook - Whirlpool 0.5oz...

Where did you find the GFCI cable? How did you ground the system?

I guess the question is this: For a three pronged outlet, is it hot, hot, ground? Or hot, hot, neutral? If I install a 30A GFCI breaker, do I leave the 3rd conductor (neutral/ground) to the dryer grounded in the main panel, connect both hots to the breaker, and then take the neutral 'pigtail' on...

I didn't even realize that the EZBoil can run off of 220V. Other than a PID, I would just have a temp sensor input and a main disconnect in my control panel - no pump control as I am going to buy a Riptide. How would I wire the GFCI breaker in my house's panel? Doesn't the breaker have a neutral...

From reading some of this, it seems that if you are going to go with the 3-wire spa panel design, you are unable to create a 120V circuit from one of the 240V legs; you must use a transformer if you want to power anything using 120V in your panel. I would need to power an EZBoil, so I need 120V...

I foresee staying in this area for a while, which is almost entirely made up of houses from the 1920s and 1930s. Maybe I can go the 120V route with two foldback 1500W elements. I can run power from two different circuits, use the PID for one of them, but just have a switch on the panel to...

If I choose to not rewire the panel for a house that's not mine, can I still install a spa panel with the existing configuration?