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Overwhelming. I have quite a wall of bines and starting to build a roof between the rows. Already have several cones and side arms. The current cones will age out before the real production starts. They smell great. Pictures are a couple weeks old now. The "trellis" is a recycled trampoline...

Looks like a bucket. If you see some "froth" (krausen), then fermentation is occurring. The amount of krausen is not really an indication of anything. Same for the lack of bubbles. Leaky tops are common. Fruit is usually added after primary fermentation is near completion. Not that it will...

Sure, but then one does not necessarily have anything to do with the other. Think about some bread yeasts... They were selected for their ability to produce lots of CO2 in a dense media. They are not so good at fermenting beer though.

It's just a factor of the way each particular yeast works given what they have to consume and in in what environment they are doing it. Each is different with distinct biology Some are fast fermenters. Others not so much. They each produce and consume products based on their individual...

Maybe.... Extra = more barley than recipe calls for. Slow = casually as they remember to move it along to the next stage.

Like others have said... There is no need to transfer and better reasons not to transfer. Something not mentioned so far... Bubbles are NOT a great indicator of continued activity. Bubbles may continue for extended periods of time for reasons other than continued fermentation. Likewise, no...

USA

Agreeing with the FatDragon on this one. I went back and read it again and came to the same conclusion.

Yes. The mysterious loss of beer was the most interesting part of the story for me too. I suppose the gray green is just hop and sediment that had settled out over time.

Nothing much to worry about here. I routinely collect yeast (trub and all) to pitch in later brews. No washing of the yeast. A method often used is to simply add your new wort directly on top of the previous batches yeast / trub cake rather than scooping some out to put in a new fermenter...

If you are trying to get it cooler, for whatever reason, it is not the temp controller. If it is running constantly and not getting colder, that is because it is reaching it's maximum cooling ability. Setting the temp goal any lower will not make it any cooler. To be running constantly and not...

Pre-boil will be lower than post boil which would be your original gravity (OG) followed by your again lower final gravity (FG) after fermentation. These readings must also be temp corrected if using a hydrometer. A refractometer can be used for pre-boil, post-boil, OG but is inaccurate once...

I'm finding it interesting that so many have trouble using the wing capper on non-long neck bottles. I keg my beer but sometimes I'll bottle part of a batch. I use an antique bench capper that will not extend low enough to cap any of the shorter bottles. Rather than placing a support under...

Yep, The actual fermentation only takes 2-3 days. Activity continues for some time following and there are/may be benefits to allowing the yeast to do their thing for 1-2 weeks. You have already done that. Add your dry hops and call it done. There is little to no benefit to dry hoping more than...

As I said ..." looks like"...or..."missing a part"... Something is wrong and it appears to be the capper On that same page in your link is a spare crimping cup. Is there something similar that is in the position where the cap is placed on the bottle? If not that could be the issue. It looks...

That looks like it might be a corker for bottling wine not a bottle capper. Or you are missing the part that crimps the cap. I have not seen one of that particular style. Most hand cappers grab around the neck and push a flat or domed surface (much like a smooth, slightly larger bottle cap)...

A moist food rich environment so yes... Two or three days is a long time. Consider how rapidly the yeast took off. Could have been any number of causes if it is mold or some other bacterial growth. The stopper, a funnel or other device used to get the wort in the bottle, it was touched inside...

Looks like mold or other unintended growth to me from the photos. Never seen yeast do that but I suppose it is possible.

General recommendations are to ferment in primary for two weeks then check for steady gravity before bottling. Having said that, many package around the one week mark. Others wait longer than two weeks. A lot depends on exactly what you are brewing and how you do it. Temp of fermentation, cold...

My brewshed is metal (hence the Metal Shed logo) so the walls were no issue. I treated the exposed wooden structure with a borate to prevent any mold growth. I added a large kitchen range hood that I purchased from a ReStore for $25 over the kettles to aid in venting moisture. I also have...