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You have to have a hose attached to the outside of the valve for the syphon to continue down past the valve height. Buy your false bottom from Jaybird at NorCalBrewingSolutions.com. Simply the best. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Did you try a beer from the keg to test the carbonation level before you started bottling?

You can bottle it and use carbonation tablets in each bottle. Or get a carbonation cap for a growler or 2l bottle and force carbonate it and drink it. If you make way too much, you could split your batch into two kegs with ~3 gallons each. Or if you really want to spend some money, you...

More than 1.3. Depending on the space in your mash tun, you can go up to 2qt/lb.

Increasing your grist ratio would in turn decrease the amount of liquid for sparging, giving you more runoff before you reach the 1.010 threshold.

Similar to the can opener, I use a hook knife (from laying sod) to pull the end of the ring out. Then grab it with needle nose pliers and work it loose. As said, this is much, much easier than a screwdriver. The slot you are trying to use is not for that purpose, it Is for the notch on the spear...

Incandescent light bulb. 100 watt.

I do 12 gallons in a15.5 gallon keg so I have plenty of head space and have never seen krausen in my valve. People who ferment in cornies will use a blowoff tube at first and switch to the Spunding valve after krausen falls. You only need about 4 gravity points to generate enough CO2 to...

I use that same pressure release valve from amazon. That in conjunction with a tee, a pressure gauge, and a way to hook it to the vessel and you are good to go. I don't have detailed build instructions, but the picture should give you a good idea.

Carboys are not designed to hold pressure, you would be making a bomb. However, if you have a pressure rated vessel (like a keg) then pressure fermentation is awesome. The device you want is called a Spunding valve. And for information on pressure fermenting, this thread...

In that case, I am for this idea. Post pics!

The issue I see is that the beer will not remain carbonated. Pressure needed for carbonation at the temperature the keg sits is very different from the pressure needed to push the beer through the cold plate. The beer will slowly lose carbonation over the life of the keg until it's kind of flat.

Find a bigger vessel. 5L flask, 1 gallon jug, 1 gallon bucket, or whatever is big enough and works on your stir plate. If you regularly make 10+ gallon batches you will quickly appreciate the saved time not constantly stepping up starters. You can easily pitch one vial into a starter into...

I have one of these, but mine has a male camlock instead of the female. I hook it up to a brewing hose then hook that to a pot. That way I can also use it to clean my hoses at the end of the brew day.

I wrap my keg mash tun in a furniture blanket and secure with a ratchet strap. No issues maintaining temp for an hour mash, even in cold weather (I brew outside). However, I brew 10 gallon batches, so more of the tun is full of mash and there is a larger thermal mass.

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml Check the website above for a "can I mash it?" Calculator. Based on the information you provided, it will fit fine.

I use half barrel sankey kegs. Takes two people to move them when full. Ferment in a chest freezer.

I second Brewer's Friend. It doesn't actually have an iPad app, but the website is optimized for use on a tablet and works great. Or you can use the iPhone app on the iPad in double size. The website is a yearly fee instead of a one time fee like a program, but their program is top notch and...

While 3 gallons submerged the dip tube, it doesn't create enough head pressure to actually push a large amount of water through the dip tube. Run a test again, but actually put 10 gallons in the tun to start. See if that fixed your issue before looking elsewhere.

There is nothing wrong with this plan. Size your yeast pitch to the first batch, and you are right about oxygen in the second half.