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Yeah... the literature says to crush at .070 though! There is no way I'm going that course! Thanks for the reply!

Refractometers usually correct for temp. I'm guessing if you do it again with it cool, you'll still get 1.053. Mine says ATC on it... which I'm 90% sure means Automatic Temperature Correction. If you go with 1.053 I show you'd be around 69%... doing the rough math.

Gila- I know you'll have something to say, and I'm looking forward to your advice.... LOL Ok, first run yesterday with the Brew-magic. Things went pretty well, but I think I sparged WAY too quickly. Well, I know I did. I thought I had things set up for a nice slow sparge, but literally 8...

I have a Philmill which is ok. I am planning on starting at around .050 and see what happens. The manual says .070 which seems just too coarse to me. Thanks for all your tips. Chad

Real quick... Gila- What do you mill your grain to? They recommend 70 thousanths of an inch. Seems awfully coarse to me. What has your experience been? Thanks!

No, I haven't ordered one. They are going to use my therminator to build me a chill-wizard, which will save me some money. They are on a 2 week break right now, and so they won't be able to make one for me for awhile. Yes, I knew it was a self-contained unit. I've watched the vids, and...

gila- Do you have your chill wizard mounted onto your brewmagic stand? If not, do you just set it on something to use?

Well, after a lot more thought... I figured it out. I was thinking I had a siphon going because the elbow went to the bottom of the kettle. After reading what you guys said, it got me thinking more clearly. I just need to have the outflow much lower than the bottom of the kettle. DUH! I am...

I don't have anything connected. I thought it would still act as a siphon though as long as the level of the bucket I'm draining into was lower than the bottom of the kettle? So if I attached a hose to the port on the outside the siphon would continue? I have a chill wizard on order, but...

A little help? I just got mine yesterday, and just ran the water only run today. All went great, except I can't get the last of the "wort" or water as it is now out of the kettle. It drains right down to the opening, but leaves about 1.5 inches ABOVE the false bottom. What gives? Shouldn't...

Wife gave me the go ahead... thinking really hard of which I want. 12 weeks for B3 or 1 week for BM. Leaning towards BM... but I don't want to let the time thing make the decision for me. Maybe I'll log on B3 and price another one up... there are just so many freaking options!

Congratulations! Although, don't expect all brew days to go so smoothly. If you don't have a plate chiller, or at least a counterflow... I'd highly recommend one. Sounds like your sanitation was good though if it sat 3 days with no activity. No infections means your sanitation methods are...

Yeah... hefeweizens aren't very hoppy. Less time boiling = less IBUs

I usually keg after secondary, go to 50 PSI and shake for a few mins. Go back a couple hours later, relieve pressure and drink up! Never had any issues... although the beer does smooth out a bit after a couple weeks in the keg.

I did a SNPA clone several years ago and used all perle. I was VERY happy with the result. I didn't taste it side by side, but I know that beer well, and I know I was close. Gave me a whole new appreciation for Perle hops.

Again, what was your grain bill? Longer mash times WILL NOT darken your wort. It was either carmelization of the sugars in the boil, or your grain bill that darkened it.

I've been brewing for about 15 years. So, I like to think I know what I'm doing. Having said that, I've only done all grain for about the last 5, and have only about 20 batches of all grain to my name. Question is, when I boil... I never get any hot break protein flakes. I still end up...

I take a small bucket lid, and set it on top of the grain bed. I pour a 1 gallon bucket back into the mash on top of that lid to distribute the wort evenly and not to disturb the grain bed. It works for me.

I use Iodophor as well. Put a small amount of mash on a small white dish... put a couple drops of Iodophor in, and as long as it stays brownish... you're good!

The extra time in the mash should not affect the color. Darker color of wort out of the mash can pretty much only come from one thing. Darker grains in the grist. What was your grain bill? I'm betting you had some caramel malt in there.... or maybe some munich? Even a 1/2 pound of...