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I don't filter, but most of my brews get a 5-7 day cold crash before kegging. If the beer is a style that is expected to be crystal clear, I'll fine with gelatin (either in the fermenter or the keg), otherwise I just let gravity do it's thing. I do a closed transfer from primary to the keg with...

Pureed fruit usually sinks since it's pretty much like a syrup.

I brewed a mango pale ale a couple years ago. Went with 5 lbs of frozen mango from Sam's Club, sanitized my blender and pureed the thawed fruit, then added it to primary once initial fermentation settled down. Gave it a week to ferment out, cold crashed for another week, and kegged it. It came...

Welcome back to the hobby! Short answer, no, the ratio doesn't matter. Wider pots will boil off more than narrower ones, but that's something you can compensate for. Also, though an 8 gallon kettle will get the job done, I'd go with at least a 10 gallon kettle to give you a little more room to...

No need to seal the keg until after the transfer is done and you've purged any residual O2. Also, no need to have any tubing coming off the keg's gas post. If you have ball lock kegs, lock open the PR valve. If pin locks, put a disconnect on the gas post so you have an open vent from the keg. I...

Pretty much what I was thinking, as well.

I used CO2 to empty the keg (I also inverted the keg and pulled the PR valve to get the last bits of Starsan out) before putting it inline off the fermenter.

I don't sterilize my flasks. I sanitize the flask with Starsan, dump my pressure-canned wort into the flask, and add my yeast. Been doing it this way for 6 years.

Water chemistry is pretty important for all grain brewing, not so much for extract brewing. Since you posted this in the beginners forum, I am assuming you're not brewing all grain. For extract brewing, you just want clean tasting water that is devoid of chlorine/chloramines and you should be...

I've been using CO2 to help purge the keg and have had no issues. First, I clean and sanitize, then do a bit of pre-purging with CO2 to get most of the O2 out. After that I hook it up inline with my primary and let the yeast do the rest of my purging. Seems to work pretty well.

Worrying about nothing. You need headspace during primary fermentation. If you were to transfer to a secondary vessel, that's when you will want to reduce headspace to the very minimum.

No, it's not too late.

In your initial post, you stated you are filtering your hops with a paint strainer bag, so that's what I based my answer on. I'm sure some portion of the yeast will get trapped in the hops, since they will act as a sort of filter, but if you allow some time for the yeast to settle naturally...

No, the mesh is way too coarse to trap yeast.

I cold crash @ 32°F.

Is the beer warm? Warm beer foams easily and the foam can enter the gas dip tube if it gets high enough.

As soccerdad described, you have to pull the knob out to adjust. If you can't get it to pull out, try slipping a small flat screwdriver or putty knife behind the knob to break it loose. It's pretty easy to tell if the knob is locked or not. In the photo below, the knob closest is locked, the...

What brand/model regulator do you have?

Sub'd for responses. My wife and I will be there in late May, also staying in the Westminster area.

With that recipe, I'd expect it to come out with a fair amount of bitterness. I think if it were my brew, I'd dry-hop the keg and make an IPA out of it.