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I agree that the dip tube is positioned too high. Why do manufacturers do these things? First, make sure you use pipe thread tape and tighten everything well on the inside, so the dip tube is sealed inside the port. That will prevent air ingress, which is one reason the siphon can be...

Never bottle anything that is actively fermenting. Bottling with ongoing fermentation is a major safety issue! Cider can take weeks to ferment to completion, and you simply have to wait. When was the hydrometer photo showing 1.060 taken - at the beginning, before fermentation started, or NOW...

Folks, read the post. SG was 1.012 and this was a diacetyl rest, not pitching temperature or primary fermentation. And there is no way in hell that lager yeast DIES at 82F. In fact, maximum growth temp is 34C or 93F. Saccharomyces pastorianus - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics

Did you look at the NorCal false bottoms? They use 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers.

The yeast is not at all dead; quite the contrary! It should love that temperature, which is 82F. Of course it's not so good for your beer. Luckily though, or at least hopefully, it is well past the point in your fermentation schedule where such a warm temp would produce off flavors and ruin...

Here is the calculator for determining gravity based on boil-off. And I assumed you actually measured 2 litres of boil-off from what you posted. If that's accurate, then of course you should modify your equipment profile to match.

It is a mix, but only very small commercial breweries, nothing industrialized. I wish I could estimate the general batch size, but it's mom and pop type of places. And I haven't been looking at any big establishments, but I have seen a few spunding valves here and there in the footage...

@moreb33rplz I should probably start a separate thread, but these are some highlights: They use motorized mash agitators to continuously stir the mash rather than using pumps to recirculate. They may use a separate lauter tun, into which they run the entire wort and grains, usually with great...

Have a look at how German homebrewers typically filter out boil trub on the way to the fermenter. Fast forward to 17:30 in this video (he's a bit wordy and I don't understand German, so...) Whirlpool in the kettle, then run-off through a filter bag into the fermenter.

Gravity increases after the boil, which is the opposite of what you recorded. So your pre-boil reading was not accurate. Hydrometer correction is way off with large discrepancies from the calibration temperature. Most hydros are calibrated at either 60ºF or 68º. To be even close, you need to...

Regardless of what macro German brewers may do today to take shortcuts, that doesn't really interest me. Nor do I believe it takes away anything from the established history of how lager beer has been traditionally produced. Also, the primary fermentation is just one small piece of the...

A couple of random Googled quotes: "The Baltic-style Porter is a smooth, cold-fermented and cold-lagered beer brewed with lager yeast." "Unlike English porters, Baltic porters are lagers, not ales." If you use lager yeast but purposefully avoid handling it as a lager - fermenting warm, not...

Just a quick comment that it's called wort without an "h" at the end. What you might get is a ball valve for that port and a pickup tube inside. Then you can practice techniques such as whirlpooling to contain the heaviest trub in the center of the kettle. Also on the inside you might install...

^As you can see, there are many ways to do things. I would venture that @bobeer force carbonates, and if so, the amount of yeast transferred to the keg can be "none" if that's achievable. In contrast, I either spund at the end of fermentation, or use priming sugar in my kegs. So I will always...

Doug will give a solidly science-based answer to that question, but think of it this way: If you take a bath in a whirlpool tub and turn on the jets to recirculate the water, at some point all the dirt that's going to come off readily will be in the water, which just continues to move through...

If you already have a suitable brewing pump, there's no need to get the Anvil pump. Otherwise it seems a no-brainer to get the pump and its accessories, which include the reducer. A better means of flow control is to install a proper valve downstream of the pump's output, not a plastic squeezy...

If you don't need the yeast to continue fermenting or metabolizing fermentation byproducts, then it's safe to drop it down without steps. The stepping technique is done to prevent yeast from going (nearly) dormant as the temperature drops. Unless you have a means of preventing suck-back from...

Linked below is a pretty revealing scientific article which discusses the erroneous perception that CO2 sinks. Worth at least a partial read for those so inclined. Bottom line is that CO2 does not sink, but the variables related to gas mixing and stratification are complex - moreso than anyone...

@VikeMan points out some good stuff for you - definitely review your fermentation temps. You can always worry, but there is nothing you can do except follow good procedure and wait. Patience is essential to brewing! All beer at that young age is considered "green" or unrefined, a bit rough...

It appears to be heavily oxidized, as evidenced by the colour and your description of the flavor. NEIPA is a difficult beer style to handle on the cold side of brewing, and particularly when bottling. It's considered an advanced style for that reason. The very large amount of hops are...