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Yes, as long as the yeast have been allowed to drop with a cold crash. I have used a few yeast strains in the Anvil so far. WY1469, WLP802, US-05, Duvel (harvested from bottles), S-04, etc. There is a dimple in the bottom center (like a Corny keg), just out of reach of the pickup tube, which...

No, I do not use a separate siphon. The Anvil buckets have a rotating pickup tube, which some people probably turn UP to avoid trub when transferring. But I don't do that because it's unnecessary. I leave it pointed down both during the entire fermentation and when transferring. The design...

Depending on the highest temperature your beer reached during fermentation, 5g dextrose (corn sugar) achieves about 3.0-3.1 volumes of CO2 in a 500 mL bottle.

I didn't realize that was a great debate :), but if so I'm on neither side... I'm using corn sugar, though, because I had bought a few pounds of it a while ago. Just working my way through it. I aimed for 2.0 volumes, but I didn't quite get there for some reason. Carbonation peaked at 1.6...

@Jhedrick83 this is the BBQ gadget I bought, although Amazon shows it now as unavailable. Use it as a baseline, though. It is Bluetooth enabled. I only use it during the mash, not during the boil or while cooling. I hang the probe over the kettle rim so that it's immersed in about the top...

Yes, I naturally carbonated with sugar in the keg. I'm doing that for just about everything I brew for a while now. Trying to save CO2, but also I am finding that the carbonation is finer with a fluffier head most of the time.

We've all been there. The best part is that the stupidest thing you'll ever do while brewing is in your future, and I don't mean tomorrow. :) It'll happen after batch 10 or 100 or when you least expect it. You will fail when you are too confident to fail!

After 5-6 days and reaching expected FG, you are probably done with active fermentation. What you're seeing in the blow-off jar is probably CO2 being released from the beer in order to equilibrate with the fermenter headspace, causing a very slight outward pressure that burps the jar every...

Ah, the emotions of my first... It was so long-awaited, the pressure was enormous. I had read about it, sure, looked at pictures... and even practiced, but nothing could match the real thing. Certainly I rushed it, and didn't take the time it deserved. Could hardly control myself, truth be...

Bottle it. While it seems mandatory to always warn "take successive gravity readings and when they're the same, it's safe to bottle" - in this case, a 12 day old, warm fermented standard gravity Hefe is DONE. Don't dump it, geez. It will be ready to refrigerate and drink when you come back...

Yes, if your water really varies, that changes things. I brew with RO or distilled produced at home. And I also brew small batches, 1-2.5 gallons, where small measurement variances can make a difference.

Basically you're describing Cascadian Dark Ale or "Black" IPA (which can also be brown). Janet's is a great example. I brewed that very early in my homebrew journey, much more poorly than I would do today, and it was still tasty. Pine and dank hops go really well with a sticky brown ale.

I respectfully disagree with Eric a bit. If you are using software to estimate pH and you are winging the salt quantities, it will compound the margin of error. Big estimation differences can result with 0.2g variation. Nail it the best you can, and that means weighing, not measuring in a...

In the midst of all this advice and detail, don't worry about it so much. Unless you are totally ignorant and/or incompetent, you will not make any important mistakes! Most deviations from your predictions and expectations will not matter in the end. Mashing is pretty darn easy and...

Shoot for 5.4 in a pale beer mash, and 5.5 in a dark one. That way there’s ample margin of error in both directions. This being said, anecdotal reports are that Bru’n Water is pretty reliable. Just be sure to measure salts accurately with a gram scale registering in 0.1g increments. Tiny...

If you are in Jersey as I am, I pity you. It's farking cold today. Electric brewing is supposed to bring you indoors! You can put the lid on and leave it cracked if you want to limit excessive boil-off. And two layers of Reflectix are better than one. Stirring will cause heat loss and is...

Of course you can top up after the boil if you insist on a precise fermentation (and packaging) volume. Some all grain brewers, maybe most, don't do that, just accepting what comes their way. If you are bottling, it doesn't really matter - you'll just have a few less bottles of higher gravity...

First of all, I'd bypass the pH meter and trust the software. Save that for another day, if ever (I still don't have one and don't plan to). Gravity and volume measurements are the most important for dialing in your system. Warning: I am obsessive about this stuff. Detailed answer follows as...

Slow temperature ramps are performed to avoid stressing the yeast. There is no reason to be concerned about that now. Bottle the beer cold, then immediately move it to a warm space for carbonating.

Chill down to 80-90°, fill the settling vessel with no splashing, put in fridge or cold garage. When settled wort reaches pitching temp, rack clear portion to fermenter, splash/aerate, and pitch yeast.