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sure, get a pump and some camlocks so you can move the hoses around. Build a rig out of wood, its easy and can be done for pretty cheap, its also super easy to change as you get upgrades. My rig as the HLT higher than the MLT and BK which are at the same height, my pumps ( i use 3) are all...

Hey all! Wanted to get some opinions on if its worth trying to upgrade my Fermenator or replace it with a Spike. I have a 14 Gallon Fermenator and want to add fermentation control, which I have priced out at around 170 bucks for the coil and jacket, which is the easy part. The hard part, I...

GFCI and GFI are the same thing. I have found if my experiences a GFCI circuit doesn't like certain things, like larger appliances and USB outlets so if you have anything like that on the circuit it might be your issues. I would talk with your electrician to see what code in your area is...

Congratulations, Remy and Hoppy2bmerrry!

I have some older fermenters and am looking to upgrade the fermentation control on them. Most companies have their own propriety solution for doing this, would love if there was an over the counter solution that will work and hoping inkbird has come to the rescue again! The North East brewers...

love Inkbird!

yeah, I bumped the inkbird from 31 to 33 and the tilt went from reading 27 to 39

I would say during fermentation there was not a noticeable difference and when there was I drummed it up to simply one catching up to the other, since the changes were faster. But now that fermentation has stopped and I've been crashing for the better part of 5 days now, the temp in the conical...

The first thing I did before every fermenting a beer in my CF15 was to purchase an additional butter fly valve which I installed in line with the sampling port, this allows me to keep gunk out of the port as well as be able to swap stuff out and not leave them to the elements inside. I am...

I just picked up my first sets of butterfly for my cold side and had to put one on my hot side because I needed the handle to go the other way. (yes, I know butterflies on hot side are frowned upon.) As for control, I still have the control I need especially with the trigger style and actually...

I only did a quick glance but I would say some of the answers you are getting are the popular ones right now, they are popular because as the hobby gets more and more popular the "big ticket" items of a few years ago are now not so niche. If you told someone, who 10 years ago was taking a tin...

Your'e absolutly correct. But for someone who isn't an electrician I was just trying to keep the principles as simply as possible to the diagram being used.

Black = L1 Red = L2 White = common Green = ground So back and red are the same, each being 120 Volts. You will not be able to build a 240 system unless you use both red and black. you either need to upgrade your connection of build a 120 system.

im guessing your o-rings are shot. the o-ring rebuild kits cost 4 or 5 bucks from most sites. Personally, I do a full rebuild once a year when I deep clean my taps. https://www.morebeer.com/products/intertap-beer-faucet-parts-seal-gasket-kit.html thats a link for the non-flow control style...

when is the last time you rebuilt the tap? 2 years without a rebuild might be pushing it

I have to agree with @Ladoit I would at the very least try isolating some of the components to see whats going on.. It looks like lots of things are piggy backing off each other instead of going back to your bus bars.. There is absolutely no reason to splice wires together or taping into...

zero worry. Once fermentation kicks off there will be a blanket of co2 on top.

yup, I went with Spikes CF15 and also picked up the longer leg extensions, extended bracing shelf, caster kit, racking arm, carb stone, and essentially the temp control bundle. I was going to get the gas manifold but decide against because assumed a spunding valve would be more useful I had...

ill give you two bucks if youre willing to ship to 19002

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