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Well, I keep my beers in a pantry where they get a little flourescent light and some diffused natural light. I think I'll just play it safe. They do look great, but I'd rather be practicle than flashy.

i have no intentions of drinking this until the holidays. i just tasted it to so how everything was going. i realize that how it tastes now may be quite different from the finish. so, are you saying that the bitterness might come back with more time?!?! oh yeah, and using WLP005.

What gets me though is that after cooling my wort (via ice bath and an immersion chiller), prior to transferring it to my primary, it had a nice pungent bitterness. Now that it's 99% done fermenting, it has lost much of its bitterness. I would expect it to taste more bitter as the fermentable...

I was fermenting a fairly high gravity stout (OG 1.086) that went crazy for about a week and then stopped. I gave it a little swirl in the fermenter and it started bubbling again for another 3 days or so. When i transferred it to a secondary and took a taste, the bitterness was pretty weak. I...

I know to stay clear of... clear bottles. The same goes for green bottles. I'm looking to get a bunch of 750 ml swing-top bottles and the cobalt ones look sharp! I really want to get a case of them, but if their UV-absorbing capability is less than the amber bottles, I'll get amber swing-tops...

I don't think it matters either way. The cross bar just adds another avenue for flow. I think as long as it's relatively symmetrical and the flow has many options that aren't near the sides or in the center it'll be fine. How to Brew has a helpful appendix on it. I did mine horizontally...

I can't speak as an authority on its air permeability. I can say that I've made 8 batches using 6.5 gallon BB for my primary and 5 gal BB for my secondary and they've all turned out delish. Would they have been better if fermented in a glass carboy? Don't know and frankly don't care. I can't...

I just did this about a month ago with the same cooler. I made it square with a crossbar using 1/2" copper tubing. Instead of slits, i drilled a row of holes over the entire top of it using (i think) a 3/64" bit. I also skipped soldering 3 joints. This allowed the manifold to hinge for easier...