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Hey, I'm a beer brewer dabbling in cider making. I've had some good success with fermenting apple juice from the grocery store by fermenting with an ale strain and adding yeast nutrients. In most cases I've let the fermentation go around 4 weeks at the lowest temp recommended for that...

I'm new to using a steam condenser and am curious about what people do when the boil concludes. Do you: 1) Keep the steam condenser running to remove steam while also running your wort chiller down to a certain temperature. (2 water supplies required/at what temperature would you turn it off?)...

I like the idea of using a quick disconnect. I use camlocks on my brewing vessels, maybe it makes sense to use another camlock? As a follow up question, if I make a hose to run from my sink to chiller or condenser what is a good flexible material to use? I find garden hoses to be too stiff to...

I’m curious what solutions people have come up with for supplying water to both a steam condenser and a wort chiller. I recently did my first indoor brew last weekend and ended up pulling our dirty garden hose in through the back door to supply water to my counterflow chiller. Has anyone made...

I’m not sure I fully understand the question. You’ll get a lower efficiency if you mash with all the water at once (no Sparge). Otherwise, yeah mashing full volume is a quick and easy way to go.

If you’ll be doing a sparge than yes, add on the extra 2 gallons to your strike water and subtract it from your sparge otherwise it’ll throw off your mash thickness. If you do a full volume mash without sparge than don’t add any extra water as I assume the volume below the false bottom is all...

Hey from British Columbia! I find it a pretty novel concept to have grandparents who home brewed. Mine would be the opposite... probably mortified actually not only that I drink beer but brew it in substantial quantities. I hope you enjoy the hobby; I started out almost 5 years ago and still...

Well, ok... I don’t think I’d drop the grain conditioning. It takes a few minutes while you heat the water up and really helps recirculation. Also the mashout, as others said, is not strictly needed to lock in fermentability since you’re not sparging. So don’t feel the need to hold it for 20...

Maybe I’m off base but I don’t consider 0.036 to be all that fine of a crush. I’ve heard of biab folks going down to like 0.025 to get pretty much flour. At one point I considered trying a tighter crush but realized that a 60 minute mash plus mash out out was yielding 95%+ conversion efficiency...

Ok, I understand now what you’re asking. I work in metric but going through your numbers they all seem reasonable. I agree that conditioning the grain before milling will improve the ability to recirculate. I condition and mill at .036 and can recirculate pretty Fast but I find it helps to start...

This may not be the answer you are looking for but the mash method you employ doesn't really change the recipe other than to scale the grain bill for efficiency you expect to get out of the mash. With that in mind a brewer should be able to take any recipe and scale the grist for the mash...

The valve will only release pressure that exceeds the set point. So presumably it is currently set at or above 30 psi. So to bleed it down press the qd plunger or wind the valve to its lowest setting

I’d add that I prefer to use Oetiker clamps for this purpose for the reason that day tripper stated (the worm screw mechanism leaving an uncompressed area on either side)

Based on the wording of the op I’m going to assume you are new to kegging, if not I apologize. Are you aware that you need to pull back on the spring loaded rim at the bottom of the quick disconnect. Doing so allows it to slide on and then releasing it allows it to snap in place. If you’ve ever...

I thought I’d update to say that I’ve put 3 batches through my snub nose fermenter and think it’s terrific. What I like: I can do a larger batch size I’ve been doing 28l of which 19l goes into a keg and roughly 7-8l gets bottled The conical really compacts the yeast and trub, I actually lose...

Update: Well I gave the original batch in question an additional week in the carboy. Yesterday I took another gravity sample and the fg had not changed plus it tasted great! So I went ahead and bottled it. I also bottled the second batch that I made when I thought this one was infected...

Yeah that’s pretty cool! Maybe you could get a blank tri clover cap and have it drilled and tapped to fit a pressure relief valve from a corny... or just keep doing what your doing.

Thanks for the helpful responses. The yeast I used was wy1728 Scottish ale which I’ve used a lot lately and repitched into this batch. I’m used to getting a big fluffy Kruasen with it on a pretty predictable time frame so this one stuck out as odd. Then again I’ve never brewed a beer this low in...

Haha, pretty much the responses I expected. So do you think I should just go ahead and bottle it up or wait a week and check the gravity again just to be sure? I’m usually the type to leave things in primary a week longer than I think it needs and then go straight to keg without taking any...

okay, cue the rdwhahb responses. I brewed a beer 2 weeks ago that looked to me like it was infected as of very next day. I say it looked infected is because there was no real krausen to speak of, there was some large bubbles and the surface looked a bit oily. I've been brewing for 4 years and...