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I’ve used the Wi-Fi capabilities twice now having done two brews on the gen 4 Brewzilla. This is my first all in one and the Wi-Fi aspect wasn’t a huge selling point for me but it does seem to work well. I don’t find the app to be super intuitive but it functions well and I was successful at...

Hey, I'm pretty new to brewing sours in general but this is my first time trying to use bottle dregs to sour a beer. I live in Canada so a lot of the sour beers that people discuss harvesting dregs from are not really available. So, when a friend brought me a bottle of Russian River...

Good to know that the 110v unit is a workable solution. I was a little skeptical because I put together my first ebiab kettle using a ~2000 watt heater on 110v (20amp) and it wouldn’t even boil a 5G batch without some extra help from a hot plate. I guess the tall narrow geometry really helps...

I’ve been looking closely at the gen 4 brewzilla as a replacement for my large self built ebiab. I’m curious if folks in North American are mostly getting the 220v or 110v option? If it’s not ridiculously under powered I think I’d lean towards the 110v option just for the flexibility of using...

Is your plan to do BIAB with the bag in direct contact with the element? I’m pretty sure this is what the manufacturer warns against. When ramping up to a new mash step the element will call for full power and could scorch the bag. If you are using a false bottom and recirculating than no...

You’ll probably have to post up some pictures to get an answer but I’ll take a stab anyway. The low voltage output of the ezboil should be connected to the low voltage side of a solid state relay. It is possible that this relay has failed and is stuck in the on position so full power all the...

I used to use a fermonster with spigot all the time and one time had the problem you describe. I learned not to over tighten the nut and I would always put enough sanitizer in to cover when sanitizing. I’d let the fermenter sit for 5 mins or so just to prove the spigot was water tight before...

I can vouch for using a 10g torpedo keg for fermenting, it’s what I’ve been using and it’s worked great. My usual batch size is more like 7g so maybe the 6g would work for you if doing 5g batches. You’re correct that pressure is effective at keeping the krausen pretty low. Definitely no harm in...

Do you have another larger fermenter? I think I’d do this one without pressure and with either a large headspace or adequate blowoff tube. If anything, you could transfer to you keg just as fermentation is winding down to get some natural carbonation.

I used that yeast in a Hefeweizen and it had a pretty substantial krausen. I think even 4g in a 5g keg might be pushing it. Also, wouldn’t pressure fermentation reduce the yeast expression likely desired from this yeast strain?

Thanks for sharing your workflow McMullan, my own procedures are all various amalgamations of what I see others do so I like reading other peoples processes. I can see how that would achieve a more pure pitch of yeast in this manner but I’d also be a little more concerned about my ability to...

Well op, you’ve got a couple different opinions. I hope mcmullan will explain why he’s strongly against the overbuild process because I think that’s the first time I’ve heard someone advocate against it. I assume you’re still planning to have an adequate pitch rate to go into your main batch, I...

Yep, what you propose is very common (overbuilding and storing a portion of a yeast starter). I always aim to overbuild by 100b and end up storing it in a mason jar in the fridge.

It’s been ages since I used a balloon for this but I’m pretty sure I used a short chunk of vinyl tubing that I could tightly slide onto the middle of a 3 piece airlock and the other I just shoved through the opening of the Mylar balloon and taped the connection with electrical tape. The tee idea...

Liquid purge just means that you fill the keg to the brim with sanitizer then push it out with bottled co2 to effectively remove nearly all o2. Best way is to fill with sanitizer through the beer out post and let the star San flow out the pressure relief valve when full and even depress the...

At the height of fermentation a balloon would fill pretty quick and you’d have to remove and seal it until you were ready for cold crash. If you’re kegging and have a co2 bottle then I’d just fill the balloon freezer from the bottle when ready for it. As for the transfer, if you have a spigot on...

I’m curious, what are you working with? A bucket with an airlock in a grommet? If it’s still actively fermenting than grab a dollar store Mylar balloon and hook it up to the airlock so it fills with the off gassing co2. Then you could cold crash and pull the co2 back into the fermenter. But...

a rational fear. I didn’t start doing the cold crash until I had a fermenter that could be pressured up before crashing. The solution you seek is at least partially dependent on the gear you’re using. When using a fermenter that I can’t cold crash in I’ll just bag the hops.

I’ve tried a few different methods but ultimately what had worked best for me is a good long cold crash and a floating dip tube in the fermenter to draw from top down. Bagging the hops works with pretty much any transfer method but there’s always the question of whether you’re losing out on some...

I hate to guess but I would assume just some corrosion on the pins or in the sockets could cause behavior like you described. I would try some electronic contact cleaner which is probably just acetone in an aerosol then assemble/disassemble a few times. If it works put a little dielectric grease...