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Great thank you - I saw mangrovejacks but wasn't sure about then as I mostly only see Fermentis referenced....

I'm a dry yeast brewer...I'm also a new brewer which means I've done liquid and dry and am determining the dry route is the way I want to go. For the most part US-05 is what I've started with. I would like to try other yeasts to see what I like best...for example US-05 creates a huge krausen...

Fantastic - thank you - I've basically been recirc-ing in hot water immediately after use.

I'd like to clean them properly - is that just a PBW (or alternative) soak and then hot water flush?

Just hooked up some silicone hoses/camlocks/pump for transferring wort to my fermenter. I'm wondering how best to clean these hoses? Just pump PBW through them at the end, seems very expensive to mix PBW for that...or even oxy free. Read online to pump 1cup bleach to 1 gallon of hot water...

I came here to say the exact same thing. CuS.S Brewing is no joke. I was looking for a new chiller as my homemade one took hours to work (it' wasn't that great) and an tub full of water was a pain since I'd have to take 6 gallons up 3 flights of stairs to do that - and even that still took...

I ended up finding someone selling a used 15g Spike with a false bottom, center dip tube, 3-piece valve, and thermometer for 2 bills. So I now have that!

I just picked up a used 15G Spike kettle with a false bottom. In my old kettle I would whirlpool and use a side pickup after using my immersion chiller to transfer to the fermenter. Now that I have a false bottom - should I use it, still whirlpool or will everything settle through - still...

Just as the subject states - what size clamp should be used for 5/16 gas line on a 1/4 barb?

Interesting - I'm going to have to search to see if there's a way to motorize the corona mill. I'm not a fan of the drill option...too difficult to maintain constant speed.

Ok cool. Seems like it might give a better crush than a barley mill/roller due to the shear action? Or am I just making that up?

Got this for free...anyone using something like this? Drill drives the worm gear from the outside of the bucket.

Is there anything that has a welded port at the bottom and at the top in the 15 gal size (a 1.2 ratio pot) I’d like to have a port at the top for recirculating wort. Of course I could just hang some copper over the edge.

I’ll be dammed. Wish I asked that question before wasting 3 o-rings Thanks everyone!!

Oh. Is that like a tiny Allen wrench? I thought that was just a hole for the co2

What? Seriously I’m not sure I understand what your saying. All I saw was the big nut that threads the main horizontal tube on to the co2 tank. This is the regulator I have. https://www.taprite.com/t752hp-t752hp Exploded diagram -...

Yep I’m on the blichmann propane burner that I picked up cheap from someone getting out of the game. I’m leaning toward spike and anvil. I’ll check out brewers beast. I’d would be nice to see these all in person before buying but I don’t think my lhbs has many different brands.

I'm a bit overwhelmed from trying to read the specs on all these different boil kettles from amazon, to Spike, Anvil, etc. Hard to know what's a respected brand or not. So - what are the major/respected brands out there for a 15 gallon boil kettle (BIAB), with a ball valve, side pickup dip...

I didn’t jam it in there...I lined it up and screwed it tight. I suppose maybe that jammed it in there...I don’t hear any leaks and will soap it up in a bit but the gauges are holding steady after a few hours.

So I noticed the other day when changing the co2 tank that the o-ring (it's the newer one with the red knobs - has no washer and is labeled as such) was damaged, and slightly leaking. So I order some new ones, I pull off the old and the regulator has a circular groove that looks like the...