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All right ill try my hose first thanks ! But again, if i ever need to upgrade to a 1/2" hose with full port valves, do i still need to change my 1/2 nipples and couplings in my mash tun and kettle ? Because it seems like full port valves have bigger threads than standard ones...

No my question was if i need to upgrade to a full port valve, will i also need to change my couplings and nipples to fit these larger valves ?

Okay but if I buy some 1/2" tubing, i guess i'll have to upgrade to full port ball valves ? Will i have to change my nipples and couplings too ???

Crap...i just spent 35$ on 3/8" silicone tubing and realized I need 1/2" tubing with my new chugger pump. Will this work amyway ? Can i still use 3/8" tubing on the pump outlet and buy some 1/2" for the inlet ?

Nope sorry ! Not very complicated though...I bought a sheet of rigid foam insulation, cut it into strips of 1" with a knife and with a lot of duct tape, wrapped it around the pot. I then made a long panel with wood planks and two metal straps to wrap around the pot. The bottom and top are also...

I got the w-6 mineral test. 21$ (excluding shipping though)

Even better for a wedding would a english ESB. From boiling pot to keg in about 12 days. Fermentation using wyeast 1968 should be done in 3-4 days at 68F using a starter

or.....for 20$ you can get a much more precise water report of your own tap water by using ward labs. Just send them a water sample and you'll get a fast analysis by email

Your 4 gallons pot is way too small for a 5 gallons pot BUT, like you, I was reluctant about using a plastic cooler in which we put 180 F water. So I bought a 9 gallons aluminium pot, used rigid foam cut into strips to insulate the bottom and side and covered the whole thing in wood to make it...

I'm testing my electric brewery and I'm having problems with condensation falling back into the wort. How can I avoid that ? Right now, I'm using a cheap bathroom fan that is 12" from my pot and I have about 3 feet of duct. How do you guys avoid that ? And no, wiping the fan is not an option !!!

I have beersmith 2 and would like to introduce a 2.5 gallons setup to my brewing equipment list. I normally do 5 gallons recipe and my boil off, trub loss etc are pretty much spot on. So can I assume that I'll lose half of those values when brewing a 2.5g recipe ? I guess the boil off will be...

All right so i'll try that before buying a pH meter, kinda pricey for my budget right now ! Thanks for your help !

Martin, I spent the last hour playing with your software. Using my classic 5 gallons ESB recipe, I plan to add 0.1g/L of gypsum and 0.2g/L of CaCl2. However, the estimated mash pH is 5,1 and suggest adding more alkalinity. If I add 0.1g/L of baking soda, it says to add 1g of baking soda to...

I finally bit the bullet and got my water tested by ward labs. As expected, my water is super soft. I'm only brewing british beer and so far, I'm not getting that maltiness and bitterness I'm looking for. Could my water be the problem ? I plan on using gympsum and calcium chloride for the...

Crap...I bought the exact same fridge as the OP...still working good after a month of use as a kegerator. Hope it's gonna last

ok thanks guys. I think I'll settle on camlocks...Might as well shell a few bucks more and do it properly

All right thanks bobby ! I'll place an order soon !

Day tripper, care to let me know why ? I've done a lot of research on camlocks, especially concerning the use of type c camlock restricting the flow. The thing is i don't see why I should spend 60$ on camlocks if they're not necessary. It's not like i'm gonna work 8hours a day on my brew rig so...

So i'm planning on buying a chugger soon and was wondering if I could avoid buying camlocks and use hose barbs everywhere instead. Is that possible ? I use 1/2" ball valves on my setup...

Or....you can buy a cheap aluminium pot, drill a hole for the vavle and insulate it with stryofoam/wood like mine. Best of both world and i remove the insulation for ease of cleaning