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I will go with the beer being fine then as the taste of the beer is good and no off flavors present. Thank you to all who replied.

my wort pump did the same, took the head off, discovered hop pellet debris was stuck behind propeller.

mine is located about an inch off of the bottom of the kettle. The element doesnt interfere with it at all.

I fermented my first beer with my SS Chronical and the krausen left a very difficult krausen stain to remove. Ive fermented with glass carboys for the past 2 years and never observed the krausen form a black edge at the top of the krausen line or a pink hue in to it as it did in the SS...

Is that the only way to tell? Or should I wait until my stomach hurts? :D

Synopsis: Fermented a beer first time in stainless steel Chronical. After kegging, I noticed the krausen had a blackness to the top edge of the krausen line as well a pink hue to a portion of the krausen on the wall of the kettle. Infection? The beer appeared normal and taste was typical...

I just realized my terminology was incorrect, I don't want to add CO2 to.my wort but oxygen. Your apparatus was for o2 was it not?

If the stainless conical is closed as the wort is being added then oxygenating the wort prior to pitching the east would be minimal. I use to oxygenat by shaking the carboy but now use a stainless conical that I can't shake

I'm trying to add an oxygenation system to aerate the wort coming out of the counter flow chiller. SS technologies recommends pumping the wort into the chronical with the lid and airlock secured.

I just read this thread while at work despite its age. I wanted to know how your CO2 build did for you. I have a E-HERMS system and ferment in a SS conical. I want to be able to add C02 to the wort prior to it going into the fermentor.

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is it an issue if the false bottom is smaller in circumference than my kettle, ie. 10 inch round domed false bottom vs. a 15 inch round kettle?

Are the compression fittings being tightened down on the copper tube? Or is it resting in them for easy removal of the false bottom?

when referring to the whole bottom of the grain bed, are you suggesting that the entire grain bed should be off of the kettle bottom and suspended by a false bottom that spans the entire circumference of the kettle?

I like your recommended solution. What size diameter dip tube are you using and do you recall what size male camlock you used? Selling my current kettle set up and purchasing smaller is not feasible both financially and time consumption. I built the system in order to have the option to do both...

yes, your gallery. I dont know how to post your gallery pic but it was the one with the copper fittings. Just brain storming and trying to figure how to hard line the connection instead of tubing. It would require some type of compression fitting on the bulk head but be able to disconnect at the...

I observed in your pictures the mash tun with the copper fittings. Were any of the soldered. You had mentioned using unsoldered fittings.

Ill have to explore that. I went ahead and took apart the wort pump head assembly and discovered undissolved whole hop pellets stuck behind the propeller around the stem. It had clogged the in bound connection side. Long story short, I will for now on keep an eye on my brew buddy when it comes...

Im going to refit with my old false bottom. Any suggestions on how to replace the tube with a solid connection. Old way was barb to barb with tubing. But your correct, I dont want it to disconnect while stirring. I would be using the false bottom that you pictured as an alternative. barb...

I actually have a false bottom as pictured from my igloo mash tun from my old system. its smaller in circumference though.