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I would like to make something like that with dry yeast (had too many dramas with liquid yeast lately). I've only really made hoppy ales with the odd porter. I have a brew fridge so I can do a lager but I want something simple that's not going to show all my mistakes like a pale lager would...

My tap water has a pH of around 7.6-7.8. My BIAB sparge water is usually just under a pH of 6 (using lactic acid). Does it really matter what water I use for rehydrating yeast as long as it's chlorine free? I use campden tablets for dechlorinating water or I just boil for 15 min (local council...

I tried adding more wort again and there wasn't much more yeast than last time but there was a lot of dead yeast. I threw out the starter. It wasn't actually green at all, the camera just made it look that way.

I'm off to the brew shop today so I might purchase a bag of Motueka. Brewhouse efficiency is around 78% with the grainbill I used yesterday. Very happy with that. It all started going bad as soon as I stopped using barley malt milled by that particular supplier. That was my first successful...

Today I was attempting to make a Coopers pale ale, but due to having an insufficient starter I was unable to do that and had to change recipe on brew day. This is what I did: 4KG (8.8lb) pilsner malt 50g (1.7oz) dark crystal malt 700G (1.5lb) DME (500g of that was 50% wheat DME) 20g (0.7oz)...

Sweet! Just got a 100g pack of NZ Cascade (Taiheke) so I'll do a single hop pale ale instead and build up the Coopers yeast to brew in a few days. I'll make sure to use yeast nutrient as I have been doing. I also pushed my luck a lot from the start - I realize this now. What I mean is that I...

Thanks so much for the advice! You've saved me from wasting a batch. I'll keep mashing, but I'll go to the brew shop now and buy some Cascade and US-05 to turn it into a pale ale. I will leave the starter in the fridge for a few more hours, then decant the yeast and add more wort. BTW, is this...

I'm just not sure how much yeast should be in the starter bottle before I know it's enough. I'm currently mashing the wort for a 1.040 OG beer. Not sure if I should try with this yeast or just go buy a packet of US-05.

This is my first time ever making a starter. I re-cultured yeast from Coopers bottles with 700mL water, 70G DME, then I stepped it up by double after 18 hours for a total of 1.5L or so. It has been sitting in the fridge for 12 hours when these pics were taken. I have not decanted off any of the...

I carefully decanted the contents of 9 Coopers stubbies (375mL bottles) and poured the yeast sediment from each bottle into a big sanitized coke bottle along with 700mL of wort made with 70g of DME and 1g of yeast nutrient. 18 hours later and I don't see any signs of activity at all in the...

I would like to make a Coopers Pale Ale clone, and I bought a 12 pack of 375mL (13oz) that very beer. The best after date on the box is early February 2020. I've never used liquid yeast before. The bottles are currently upright in the garage and I will leave them that way for a few days for the...

I have a decent electronic meat thermometer on its way as we speak, but when I measured the wort temperature coming out of the exit with my traditional analog style temperature probes, it was a few degrees lower than the actual wort in the grain bed. The elements on the Robobrew are on the...

In 18 hours it's managed to drain about 2L (about 4 pints) from the grain bed. Usually the whole sparge process is over in 20-30 minutes.

I usually use that quantity of acid malt as I know from previous all barley mashes that I get a pH reading of about 5.6 after 20 minutes of mashing. From what I've read wheat seems to be a little less acidic than barley.

I have a Robobrew but I'm looking at giving up on all grain and going back to extract. My all grain journey started off well enough, but now I've thrown out 4 mashes in the past week because it's nothing but problems such as incomplete conversion and a stuck mash. I'm just over the waste of time...

I guess I could, but the tap water pH is 7.7 here. I just program the Robobrew to 67C and let it get to temperature while the recirculation is going. Next time I do all grain I'll try all that. For now I'll just buy 2 cans of wheat LME to do an all extract brew so I can actually produce...

Probably at least double the cost of the grain. But then my time is worth something too! Strike water is 44C (111F) for the ferulic acid rest. Strike water volume is 22L (5.8 gal). Sparge water is about half that volume. To sparge (after mashing out) I just lift the malt pipe out of the...

You're right - I mixed up pre-boil gravity with OG. Based on the 1.020 pre-boil gravity I guessed that post-boil (OG) it would've been no more than 1.025 so I knew straight away that was a fail. I've checked the mash temp, it seemed to be holding around 67C (152F) with no problems.

For the first time since having my Roborew 3.1, I've got a stuck sparge. It was meant to be a 1.063 OG all grain red rye IPA kit. Usually a sparge only takes 15 minutes to sparge but it's been 4 hours so far and there are only slow drips of wort coming out. It has only managed to get maybe 1/4...

Malt bill was the same for the past 3 brews: 3kg (6.6lb) Gladfield wheat malt (yes it's malted wheat) 2kg (4.4lb) Gladfield American ale malt 200g (0.44lb) Gladfield Sour grapes malt (acid malt) 500g (1.1lb) oat hulls (that was too much, I think) https://www.gladfieldmalt.co.nz/ OG (after...