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I have a freezer with a bad thermostat. It will run all day long even though the inside is -30. One of these temp controllers solved that problem. I used one for a while to stop an outdoor spigot from freezing up. A friend used one to make an incubator for chicken eggs.

I have never added dme to the fermenter. I have added it during the boil to correct gravity. It should work but I am no expert. The conversion for DME is 1 lb gives 45 gravity points in 1 gallon. I know brewfather has a gravity correction calculator under tools. If your software doesn't...

The blowtie valve doesn't make much noise unless a lot of air is flowing through it. You can hook a piece of tubing to the exit side of the blowtie valve and then run that into a container of water/sanitizer. The bubble activity will give you an idea of how much gas is exiting the valve.

The simple answer is, The same as your lagers should be fine. Maybe a tad higher. Personally, if your fridge is at 37 F than I would set it at 12psi and let it carbonate for a week. ..and then serve at the same pressure. That should result in a carbonation level that is at the higher end...

1.5 tsp (6g) of cane sugar or corn sugar (dextrose) per 1000ml will get you in the acceptable range and should be about 2.3 vol CO2. That is a nice "middle of the road" carbonation level. If you use corn sugar (brewing sugar) it will be just a tad less carbonated (probably not noticeable)...

1lb of Dextrose will add 42 gravity points to a gallon. ....So I believe 4oz of dextrose added about 2 gravity points to your 5 gallon batch. If you measured 1.006, it was actually 1.004 before the sugar addition. If you did actually measure 1.060 than it was 1.058 before the sugar...

Sounds like a tasty brew to me. Maybe? Update us on how it comes out. Some descriptors of abbey malt sound great; malty, nutty, biscuit... others give me pause; honey, sweet.

I suspect your beer will be fine but it will be quite a bit different than the recipe intended. Stronger, higher ABV, more hop character, and possibly some fruity ester from the warm fermentation start. This strain (chico) is pretty temperture tolerant so it is quite possible it will still be...

As you mentioned this depends on the brew and your brewing style. Half gallon will be plenty If you transfer relatively clear beer to the fermenter and don't dry hop loose. I have never had any issue with just yeast itself clogging anything up. As recommended by spikeybits, I (gently) bent...

I would set the PT delay to the maximum. On my inkbird it is 10. If I could set it to 30 I probably would. This setting is just insurance in case something goes haywire. As mentioned above, it should not be cycling on and off that often when everything is running properly. Cycling on and...

For a standard bottle, I have done 3 vols on several occasions and had no issues. YMMV. I always condition them away from the family and contained in some way. Better safe than sorry. I bottle conditioned a lot of beer my first 5 or 6 years brewing and never had one go boom...

It has not been on the yeast too long. IMO, 18 or 19 days is par for the course especially for a beer with such a high OG. I dont like to dry hop for longer than 7 days because I have had some grassy flavors develop in the past. I think this was the cause. You may or may not have that...

I agree with the above. Fermentation temp control is important. Spending a few dollars here is worthwhile if you don't have this ability now. Its fun to try and maximize your brew house efficiency but its never been a high priority to me. If I have to add a pound more grain to hit my numbers...

I have some thoughts but I am not sure I have a solution. I have not done the calculation but I would not have added baking soda to this brew. I only use baking soda to adjust mash ph. This grain bill doesn't look like it needs adjusting in that direction. I am not sure if that explains...

If I was planning to serve it to a group of beer snobs and was really concerned I allow a week for it to settle and hope for the best. However it is possible you could have "relatively" clear beer much much sooner if there wasn't much sediment to start with and you were careful while moving...

You know... I am only just now realizing I stole a products name as my handle. I thought I made that up on my own. ...and I am using a picture of a competitors product as my avatar. Hmmm.....

Ha. I think I started brewing in 2013...or 2012. I have not brewed a dumper yet but there have defineatly been some batches I thought were dull or missed the style. I also have at least 36 bottles with more than a year of age on them.. it is likely many of those go down the drain. They...

Yes, you probably torqued it a bit too much although it is possible it was defective. I use the Duotight fittings (similar design) and crank to just past finger tight. I haven't had one crack or leak yet but that may just be luck.

It makes sense to me. A couple things to consider if you haven't already. 1. Diluting with straight ro water will reduce the mineral content of the final beer. If you are expecting any contribution from the minerals make sure you plug that into the calculator as well to ensure your final...

You want to minimize the amount of sediment you transfer to the keg but It is not unusual to transfer a little when racking your beer. Usually it will settle out and your first draft or two will be a little hazy. No worries. Now if some hop material or other chunky trub makes its way into...