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I like the taste of Smart Water.

Your efficiency was more like 48%

Efficiency is related to grains only. You would leave your candy syrup out of the equation. Efficiency is literally the percentage of sugars you are extracting from the total potential of said grain. You need to know what the volume and gravity of your wort was preboil before adding the syrup.

Like I previously stated, as long as pH is properly controlled tannins won't be extracted. My beers consistently score in the 40's.

What was your grain bill and how much wort did you collect? As a former BIAB brewer, I'm a little skeptical about 87% efficiency.

Your prior post about 12.5lbs of fermentables was misleading. I also assumed you were talking about extract. What do you mean by 12.5lbs of fermentables? 12.5lbs of grain? Efficiency depends on what type of grain you're using. Different grains have different "extract potentials." Enter...

A little late but calcium carbonate and acid malt work against each other in terms of ph.

Next time you boil, place your hand where your ball valve is. If it feels hot enough for the rubber handle to melt, I suppose you might need a heat shield.

Couldn't hurt. Whether its necessary is entirely dependent on your setup and burner. I don't need one for my ball valves but I fabricated a heat shield for my sight glass on my boil keggle. I trimmed an old motorcycle license plate and attached a conduit hanger to it. Snaps right in place.

The crush is the same. I use RODI water and build water to specific profiles. I generally keep overall Ca and Mg levels the same but alter the amount of Sulfate to Chloride. Mash ph is always at 5.2-5.35. Sparge water is always at 5.2ish with the use of lactic acid. All other equipment the same...

I just checked the tubing. It's 11 gauge 1.5" tubing.

I've attached a picture of the gussets. On my first brew without them, the center post would flex and resonate back and forth once loaded with water in the vessels. There are no supports on the two upper shelves. IMO, it is not needed. Running four solid welds per shelf is enough support...

Sure. I'll try to take some later.

With a non-recirculated, single infusion mash that was fly-sparged, I consistently obtained around 81% efficiency. I got a pump and started recirculating my mash. My efficiency jumped to 91% with no astringency. IMO, as long as pH is controlled you shouldn't be extracting tannins from the...

56 Ring will do a 50lb bag of Rahr for about $43. No tax since it's a food item. Can't beat that.

This is what mine came out like. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-brew-sculpture-almost-complete-346164/ I have since added gussets to the bottom to support the main tubing post. It helps immensely.

Depends on the level of automation in either setup. The cheapest route would be to just get a pump and make it a direct fire, manually controlled RIMS setup. That's what I do. Yeah, you have to manually turn the fire on and off and closely monitor it, but hey it works. I only have one pump...

It's what I did but I put a burner on each tier. You can always get a pump down the road and turn it into a RIMS setup.

IMO, you'll be fine. If it were a pale beer you might have issues with haze but it won't be an issue with a stout. You'll have a nice fluffy head on that beer.

Awesome video. I can't help but think that the gummy bear might taste amazing after that light show.