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These two batches I brewed in early and mid August, so after two weeks of prime fermentation, they have been in bottles for 6-8 weeks by now. The room temperature was around 80 F（27 C）. The FG was from 2.5p to 3.5p from batch to batch. I don't think it is the problem of room temperature, as I...

It's been 6 weeks... 90% of them still no foam. I just put sand sugar (cane sugar) staight into the bottles, then fill the bottles with a tube inserting into the bottom of the bottles. The same bottling method I did with other beers like IPA, PA, etc ( with US05 yeast ), and all carbonated well...

It's been 6 months now. Most of the bottles sill no foam, but occasionally there is one or two out of 10 bottles carbonated like normal, which I guess bottled towards the end of the fermentor? I was thinking to lower the temperature to get a clear beer, since it could settle down the hops and...

I use Fermentis Safale S-04 to brew Stouts and British Ales. Normally after two weeks in the fermentors, I bottle right from the fermentors before adding cane sugar in the bottles ( 2.6-2.8g / 330ml), and leave the filled bottles in room temperature for 2 weeks before putting them into fridge...

This is probably the easiest way to do it. Dryhop on 3rd or 4th day after adding yeast when it is at high krausen. Will give it a shot.

I am using carboy as fermentor. Is there any better way to avoid the wort from contacting air during dry hopping? Thank you.

Totally agree. After draining I got pretty haze wort, but after boiling ( whirl floc ), fermentation, cold crash and bottling, the beer turned out quite clear.

I noticed there indeed were a bit of plastic shaving inside the faucet. Poor manufacturing... this is one of the culprits.

Since I want to take homebrewed beers to friends or even enter the competition, so did not think of kegging in the first place. But if bottling dose not work well for hoppier beers, I would do kegging. Just wondering how those prize winner IPAs did for bottling..

I did put turn the faucet to the fully open position, where the gap inside the faucet is the biggest in order to maximie the flow. And there is no msh filter inside. I will try to drive the the air trapping in the faucet and filler tube by the method you mentioned. I could be difficulte to break...

I have a problem using the bottle filling stick ( with the stopper at the end ). When the stopper reach the bottom of the bottle, the work starts flushing into the bottle, but inside the stick the wort was not fully occupying the stick and only half of the inside space of the stick with wort...

I think I have to use solid rock sugar ( or carbonation drops that you suggested ) is because when I bottle I will input the tube to the bottom of the bottle and wait until the wort fill all the way up to the mouth of bottle, then let the work rush out a little bit before tighten the tube. The...

No, I don't hink there is any solid rock sugar left in the bottles. The rock sugar's color is white crystal, so it's supposed to be totally fermented. It seems I just need to incread the weight of rock sugar use for each bottle, next time I will try by 3g/330ml and see how it goes. The thing...

I used to use while suger when bottling. Normally I do proportion of 8g/ 1L (white sugar/wort). Firstly mix white sugar with 250-300ml water and boiling them for 10 mins, then put this solution in the bottling bucket after it cools down to room temeperature; Secondly, transfer the wort from...

I tasted a bit of raw Epsom and I think you are right since it tastes almost exactly the same as the unpleasant bitterness in my beer. I remember my electronic scale is not sensitive enough, sometimes when I put a bit salt on it and the number on the screen does not change... I guess I will use...

This water profile is my target: Cal: 106 ppm Mg: 20 ppm Na: 27 ppm Sul: 245 ppm Cl: 88 ppm HCO3: 27 ppm I added salt based on that and I put 3g Epsom in a 15L mash water ( no sparge) for BIAB. So my 20ppm Magnesium should not be a problem, right? And 245 ppm sulfate is also in the right...

The final beer in the bottle is pretty clear though, it chilled the fermentor before bottling to let the hops and yeart set, so the beer body is quite clear and I don't see any suspended particles.

I used RO water and did water treatment, and the sanitizer is Starsan, so it is not the bleach problem. Also I use the homebrew hose bought from local homebrew supply shop, so can exclude this factor as well. yeah it tastes like aspirin power after it is grind... or any other medical pills...

I have brewed several batches of APA and IPA with fair enough amount of bitter hops and dry hopping according to some recipes available online. For example, for 7 % ABV with 50-60 IBU and 6% ABV with 40-50 IBU. The IPA is suppuse to be bitter, horever, the bitterness in my beer is not the the...

How should I fix it then? After I input the grain bills in Beersmith, it calculate the total mash water needed according to the my brew system profile I input ( such as mash efficiency ) beforehand. Should I prepare different brew system profiles in the sofeware with different mash...